Mbl35

Did you air leak test the high pressure oil system? I would look closely at the wires of the ipr connector, see if the insulation is not cracked and the wires stuck together.

It came in this morning for a pm service. I popoed the hood to check the bottle and it was 1/4 full. I filled it to the cold fill line and did the combustion leak test, the test fluid went from blue to dark green in less than a minute. I put the radikplusa on it and only builds up 16hg vacuum and drops to 14.5 and holds steady. I then pulled the egr cooler pipe to have a look and was dry. I then took it for a nice ten mile hard accelerating drive in the sun and the highest degree difference between ect and eot was 13 degrees on the highway, but most of the drive it was like a 7 to 9 degree difference no matter how hard i got on the throttle. When i got back to the shop i popped the hood and coolant was bubling out of the degas cap, little by little i vented the pressure out by cracking the cap a little at a time and you could see a yellow bubly substance but not oily. Kind of looks like the left over residue after you just cleaned the cooling system for a mixing oil cooler. It has'nt had that foamy stuff since march when another tech flushed the cooling system out. This never had an oil cooler done before. This is weird, it's not overheating. And the weirdest thing is that i did the combustion leak test again and the fluid stayed blue . When i fix my blackbery software, i'm gona post pictures of the soapy residue.

When ever im not asleep or spending time with my daughter i get on the mountain bike trails. I am also looking at surf boards rite now. Hopefully over the summer i could squeeze in the energy to learn to surf. Also i salt water fish from time to time.

Yea, i couln't check it properly cuz they were in a rush.

Reviving this post because this thing rolled in yesterday for an a/c concern. i got a chance to check the eot to ect. They are like 7 deg. apart and this things been running all day in the heat. The bottle was below half full and the the medics say it don't overheat. This thing almost never shuts off exept whrn it comes in for service. Could it be that due to the fact that it's constantly running and on high idle alot that the cooling system pressure is a bit higher than normal?

I had one on an o8 yesturday. The medics complained of some strange drivability syptoms. I could'nt verify it. The cel was not on and eec tests pass. Egr test failed twice for maf in running test 1. I put in a new one and egr test passed, tested it again to be certain and pass.

Had an intermitant no crank on a 00 impala. Turned out to be a loose ground at the left fender. It was in a colission and when the body shop put the ground back they did not pay attention to the loosness of the ground wires in the crimp of the eyelit. Had an 05 towncar with no switching of the modes on the duel climate control. On the pinpoint test all the ohm readings checked out fine-indicating no fault, another store just put in a atc head. I got the ok to pull the dashboard to have a good look and like 4 wires in the harness were sandwiched between the back of the thin metal bracket of the dashboard and the a pillar on the right side.One of wich was a vref circuit for the atc head to a blend door position sensor-halting proper operation to the system. Warrenty turned to cash due to the fact that there was an aftermarket navigation radio installed. But the funny thing is that i recall on the pinpoint test there was no continuity to ground on these sandwiched wires and they all had continuity to each other in the pinpoint test as well as like 4.6 or close to 5 volts on the vref circuit.

I had a dirty one on a merc maruader once. The customer was complaining of no power. There was no codes on all eec tests. Maf pid was at like zero and all o2's were at zero and would not change when reving the engine. I checked the maf cuz when i drove it it felt like a bad maf. It had some crap on the wire, i cleaned it off and reinstalled. The pids were still at zero, i disconnected the battery and touched the pos and neg wires together with the headlights on and reconnected. All the pids read normal and then it took off like a bat out of hell. A dirty maf could do some weird stuff.

Did you probe the data bus at the dlc to see voltages? I think each wire should have 2.5 volts or one a little more than the other-i forgot but they should both add up to 5 volts. Can you do a data bus check to see if the other modules show up like srs and abs. What about overlaying the dlc wires to the pcm and see if you get comunication? Shake the crap out of the harness and see what happens. Btw i have changed my fair share of processors-escapes for the ignt coils, plugs and pcm-theres a tsb on that. A few 97 expeditions for crank no start and no comunication, 05 crown vic for throwing random false codes and check engine light and my very favorite lincoln ls for a no pedal issue.

I learned my lesson with front covers. The first and only time i did'nt loosen the intake i cracked the doughnut despite all the grease on it. F-series is a cinch, e-series takes about an hour or so to loosen the intake but it takes the fight out of front cover instalation.

Also a good practice on fuel tanks before removing sending units.

Cyls 1 and 5 exuast pushrods bent on the heads i just did, also cyl 5 exaust rockerarm cracked. I lined everything up and put all the valvetrain components back to the same positions they were before. I put the crank at 6o'clock. The onlything i did not do was turn the crankshsaft by hand before i started it. What a horible sound this thing made-gave me shivers up my spine. I replaced the pushrods and a rockerarm, then i turned the engine by hand a few revolutions, all looks well. I cranked it up a bit and thankfully she ran great. This was the first time ever that i did'nt turn an engine by hand after doing engine work. I forgot, but serves me right.

Yea, i siphoned out the old crappy oil up in there and put in fresh new oil-could not hurt. Plus i wanted to cover all bases before i put the only 7.3 hp pump we got in stock rite now.

I had the same thing waiting to greet me when i came in to work thursday eve. You coud barley get this thing up to 35mph and the check engine lt. comes on at hard accel. I really coud not watch my icp and ipr pids because im driving in traffic. It starts fine cold and hot though. You clear the codes and drive it on accel like 1 block and right away ckek engine lt-p1211 and 1212. I bring it in and first i drop the tank(oil just changed and level fine)just to inspect for a blockage in the sending unit-just to cover all bases. The filters were blocked. I change out the sending unit, pump and fuel filter also remove and install new oil into the hpop reservoir. I drive it and same thing after 1 block. Right back into shop, i rnr hpop and ipr. I drive it 3 miles and runs like new, eec test pass. I don't have a fuel pressure testing adapter for this and i see more fuel related failure than pump failures on 7.3 so thats why i hit the fuel system first despite the icp codes. Anyway it was justified for me to change the sending unit because those filters were plugged.

Anybody know where the turn signal/hazard/flasher module is located exactly on this? The book shows it's next to the chimer module in the center of the dashboard. I took the whole thing apart and there's nothing there. I tried to use sound to locate them but the chime and blinker sounds come through the speakers.

A few mos ago i put the trigger wheel on the wrong slot on a 3.0 escape but i removed the crank pulley after it was torqued and all the cover bolts-valve covers not on yet. Good thing because it started right up. One time i was finishing up heads on a 4.6 and i forgot the trigger wheel, thankfully i just realized it when the cover was sitting in place without any bolts yet.

A dealer did a warrenty job for us recently- there was a foreign bolt laying in the oilpan that was sticking out of the oil drain hole. I can't understand how it got there. Anyway, it went to the dealer cause we were swamped. It ran fine without any noises. When it came back, the summary of repairs stated that the camshaft was replaced due to worn lobe and lifter/s-not sure which one/s-paper not in front of me. I belive they had the bedplate off. The safest way to do it would be to remove the crank. Good luck.

Jeff E-i did the same thing on a 5.4 when i was at ford and definitly not fun,fortunitly i was able to push the trans and case just back enough tol slide it in.

yes. But i never got a chance to review the work summary to see what repairs were made, it's been so busy. If i could get a chance, i would sit down with the wiring schematics. We got the gm repair manuals and tec2 now.

We got it back from chevy, the brake light concern repaired but now the headlights and interior lights are inop

pcm should be in same spot as 7.3 van.

had an 04 navigator doing the exact same thing. It had a loose engine to chasis ground.

I was able to get back on it before, installed the heads, loosened the transmount, jacked it up and the lower left stud went rite in. Anxiety over.

2)Put in the syncro, the noise is gone and 5 mile test drive runs good for 245k- only p1000. I r&r waterpump and tube while in there. As far as 1- i got the sparkplug boot remover from snapon and when i get a chance i'll atemt that one.

Thanks.