Mbl35

The arp kit i got requires the studs be torqued 210 ft lbs. in 3 incraments. Mine is rwd only so i think i'll try the jacking thing. I just got the studs the other day and i got to clear up some other stuff before i get back on it. So 210 divided by 3 rite? Not sure i only know the degree way.

Nice! Keep em coming fellas.

Also I remember mine was'nt precycling koeo-at least the way it should, you would hear a little fart instead of the usual harmonious rattle of the injectors. When I rnr all inj. It had that nice and healthy sound.

Vans are a pain. The radiator has to come out, stator, fan, pretty much all the pulleys,upper and lower alternators, lower alternator bracket and i like to remove the vacuum pump with the bracket together and the coolant hose that goes into the front cover-it makes routing the cmp harness less painful. I hav'nt checked what it pays cause i don't work retail but if guys are getting 10hrs for a truck, i would think like 12-15 for a van.

No, i just layed it in bank 2 area and snaked the harness down toward the ficm and started plugging it in.

Last shft i was putting an engine haness in an 05,as i was plugging it in to the ficm, the large connector wouldnt plug in unless i flipped it upside down. I removed the connecor shell and tried to reverse it but i could not get all of the pins to stay lined up at the same time in the pin retainer. Were sending it back defective. Now i'm doing a harness on an 04. Hope i don't run into the same shit.

Just curiouse, were there any cylinder contribution codes when it first came in for the concern? I had one a while back just like this. It came in blowing white smoke all over and had a cyl 1 contribution code. After the egr cooler was replaced it would not fire up. First hotline had me replace batteries and the starter-no good, swap known good ficm-no good. Another call to the hotline with all voltages and icp specs good, the hotline had me change all the injectors and after some cranking it fired rite up and good. Hotline says that the coolant getting in the cylinders from a blown egr cooler forms a sludge on the injectors over time causing them to stick and fail.

Get in there and shake that thing it should start.

ok thanks.

Waiting on the studs. Is the torque spec the same as the bolts?

Got an o4 in the bay right now. Stuck in the parking area. Crank no start. Builds icp, has rpm and ficm sync and sync read no. I first wiggled the body harness next to the relay box-no start. Then i reached in and wiggled the engine harness coming out of the pcm and it started up and ran like crap and stalled, started it up and reved it, drove in the shop. This one needs an engine harness, a crank sensor and an egr-p1335 at best. We do quite a few engine harnesses around here. Also iv'e been finding a few distorted cam sensors and a few crank sensors falling apart with shells getting stuck in the block.

Yea, o7 f350.

Exellent, thanks I cut a 1" gash on my lower thumb knuckle wrenching off the heatshield bolt on bank 2. Luckly i work in ambulance co., no shortage of bandages here.

Aaron, how is the clearance for the rear head studs on the left? Do you use the same socket as the bolts? Thanks.

It's good now. Put in a thermostat,combustion leak test passed,egr cooler dry. Reconditioned turbo and noise gone, rnr ficm for ficm iussue. Radiator fins clean.Rnr egr valve-was plugged up with carbon but passed egr test. Rnr ebp sensor. Drove it 60 miles in 2 days and ran at operating temp and no dtc's lots of power.

Just got back on it now and just pulled the evap. case off. I got busy with some oter work. I'll try to pull the heads before i go home at two but i doubt it, problobly just the intake.

Thanks guys.

Yea, the last time i did that mistake was on a post about 04 or 05 escape mil, i initially said 09 escape. Ok you think it's possible with that new angle adapter that just came out. And or it's tight due to clearance placing heads down over stus or can the studs be placed in after the heads are sitting on the block? Thanks.

Mike, 07 f-350. We are short on space in my bay to lift the cab i would have to spin it around the other way and it would be in the oposing bay where one of the day shift guys work. So to do studs you got to either lift cab or pull motor?

Got to do heads on 07 f350 lance. We want to install head studs. I dont feel like pulling the cab becuase the a/c and heater lines are a bitch. Can i install the studs incab? Whats the manufacturer of the studs-part#? Thanks. Oops i meant f 350.

I think Medix. We used to have a manufacturer schematic book for every unit. They all disapeared when we moved.

ok thanks.

08 Chevy box ambulance 6.6 durmax. The brake lights are on constantly. I unplug the brake light switch-still on. I unplug the ambulance body brakelight diode-still on. I can't find the chevy manuals-i think they're at our other shop. Is anyone familiar with the brake light circuit on these? Possibly a relay somwhere that im missing? A shorted multifunction switch?

We just had a bedplate put in under warrenty at the dealer. 06 e350 box ambulance. A peice of the bedplate was broke off were the oilfilter housing bolts to. Anyway when this thing came back like a month later with no reverse lights, oil pressure gauge drops to zero at times and a diesel leak. I repaired the diesel leak-copper fuelline gasket had a nail line in it causing a fine stream. I pushed on the oilpressure switch connector with a long screwdriver and that temporarily stoped the oil pressure gauge from dropping oh AND MOST IMPORTANTLY A HOLLOW SOUNDING KNOCK SOUNDING LOUDEST FROM THE AIRFILTER AREA. It went back to the dealer and they repaired the oilpressure switch/guage concern and some loose brackets and nissing bolts from the ps pump etc. But now when i came in last nite to find it in the bay with a note saying no revberse lights. It had a check engine light with trans codes and all bank 1 glowplug circuit codes and the knock was still there! Starting with the no reverse lights problem, verifying the chasis circuit being good at the relay i went to the trans snake at the pcm following rearwood to find the little 2 pin connector that connects to the engine harness unpluged-ok checked it and rev lite problem fixed. On to next concern-or should i say problem...glowplug, i see the glowplug harness connectors have a shitload of tape wrapped around them. Also bank 1 glowplug harness is installed backwards. Now being so irate-i snake my hand from the rear of the engine and unwrap the tape and yank the glowplug harness out and rnr , glowplug test proves out-fixed. On to next problem-transmission, i inspect wiring down to trans main connector at trans to find a caves in pin and so flattened that i did'nt attempt to straighten it. I rnr inner trans connector harness and test drive 25 miles all Pass-runs like new now EXEPT(sorry for the long rant but i'm pssed off man)FOR THE KNOCK AT IDLE! I also checked for loose crankpulley bolts etc. and all are tight. The dealer said to remove the brakebooster vacuum line and see if it goes away, i did that and not likely. That knock was not present before the bed plate repair. Though i would like to know if anyone has experienced a knock like this from the left front of the moter and i t seems to get louder the longer the engine idles.

had to do to unplug the throttlebody on a few units here, but thats becuase they barely would reach 40mph, unplug and good as new. Rnr throttlebodies fixed concerns.