fordtech03

Do you know if he put the zip ties on the connectors for the VCV and PCV? Maybe not latched in all the way?

I did that on a 6.0 one time....lol....in an E-series, caught it before anything got bolted up.

They gave us a tear tag number to use for version 65 in school that will let you ID the vehicle, I don't have it handy right at the moment but can get it later at work if anyoine needs it.

I got one in today for same concern, P0088, intermittent. Leaning towards pump replacement as well, all the electrical checks pass. There was metal in the secondary housing but the hotline blew it off and said that might be from the fuel cooler??? Going to do the debris check on monday morning...

There's a post on the PTS forums about one already....I could care less if they fail, I'll just be happy to take it out without pulling the cab.

The valve is bolted flat to the cooler, comes out housing and all...no need to extract

I've been brainwashed by the 6.4...I pulled a head on a 89 Toyota today and immediately went for the body bolts....

I disagree...all of the coolers are right there in easy to get to places, I'll gladly drop the bottom of that oil pan out to get the last bolt of that oil cooler out vice what you have to go through on a 6.4 or 6.0, the EGR valve pretty much comes right out with no seizure issues, getting the turbo out doesnt seem to be much of a chore, with the exception of the small clamp in the back, don't know, haven't tried it yet in the vehicle....the HP pump shouldn't be that hard to get to.... compared to a 6.4 this motor should be easy to work on. The one thing I was not impressed with was the excessive use of plastic fittings tied into the fuel lines...like at the injectors and that small T coming off the secondary fuel filter line...just my 2 cents...

At least they made everything easy to get at for the most part.

That just made my day...

Just got done with class....I'm pretty impressed at some of the thougt that went into it. Even if they did build another POS it looks fairly easy to get to everything.

We have a F-450 supercrew in with a leaking RH adaptor pipe, it has a utility body on and it is too heavy for any of our lifts. The vehicle sits pretty low, these are for the highway crew supervisors.I can get the body off, but would rather not. Pulling the trans on the floor is an option but I'm not sure if I can pull it far enough back to get the downpipe out without jacking the front of the vehicle way up to get the trans out of the way. Basically I think it turns in to just as much work as pulling the cab... Has anyone tried pulling it out without pulling the trans?

I believe that is correct for warranty time.

So does this tie into the front cover cavitation problem? I was replacing some t-stats recently and noticed they had begun to erode the sharp edges inside the housing plus some slight metal particles in it. I pulled the water pump and sure enough the cover was all pitted/eroded inside.

Thanks...never really had much troubles with them seizing like that until yesterday.

I feel your pain....a Windstar has sturdier cage nuts for the subframe...pretty sad...

April 26th-28th in Exton for me...looking forward to it...

I pulled out some front ones out out today that were unpainted? I wonder if it depends on where they were built? The right rear gave me a fit though, stalled a half inch drive impact while I had a helper above holding the nut with a breaker bar, the loctite had gotten seized up in the threads...it eventually worked loose after about a few minutes of CONSTANT hits with a 1/2 drive Snap On impact....I really hope these 6.7's can be repaired without pulling the cab

I can get all of the cab bolts off in no time at all if done by hand with a nice long 1/2" drive ratchet. The front two under the radiator, if they spin we have a cheap 22mm wrench we cut off that slides right in after removing the headlamps to hold the bolts so you can zip them out with the air tool of your choice...30 minutes or less ...every time....too many times unfortunately

+2 on that. The WSM has the torque specs for both, I have been replacing the copper style with the newer ones as needed.