deezul

My friend, I ordered one new bolt for the crank sensor. I needed easy outs to get that bolt out. The package came as a pack of four so I used a second bolt and replaced the cam sensor bolt with a new one as well. Im still thinking cam bearings but then again Im still drunk.

So here's my hypothesis, this might sound crazy and I have been drinking but take a read: Worn out camshaft bearings Here's why. Signal comes and goes...How does it? The peg isn't missing for the camshaft because it does start, I did grab a good pattern on my silly scope but currently I can't grab a frequency. When it's cold the oil is good and thick and keeps the cam floating and let's it start without issues. When it's hot the oil is good and thin and can barely keep das cam a float causing the signal to come and go. The cam walking back and forth throwing out the air gap would cause this uber random YES signal/ NO signal. This truck also has a banks system on it, extra stress?? Reasons why I might be crazy: I have no driveability concerns. You'd think at wot and how minute the air gap is between the sensor and the cam peg I would have stalling and/or driveability concerns..but I don't (it did surge at stop lights/signs but the new ICP sensor fixed that). So am I crazy or am I onto something????? Anyone on some sort of brain wave that I am or is it the Gibsons talking?

Yeah, I may be somewhat novice but I'm not that novice <shaking head>. I have seen rust jacking on that sensor a dozen other times so I made sure that the block is bare and shiny, I even removed the o-rings off the sensor just to be 100% certain that the gap was proper. I don't understand how I had a good pattern on my silly scope but now trying to retrieve a frequency, no dice. I guess I will go in tomorrow and see if I can see anything sinister from camshaft sensor port, see if maybe the timing pin or something is worn...

I checked for these values at the pcm connector, for some odd reason I am not getting any signal from my CAM circuit, crank is directly proportional to cranking rpm...man I wish tech line would have told me these numbers then maybe Id be getting somewhere by now...

I wiggled the carp out of the harness, still no luck. PCM swap was a dud, part #'a weren't the same and the pcm was from a newer truck, it pretty much turned every light on the dash and it wouldn't start... although my scope pattern was good I may just drop the pan and take a peak at the tone ring I'm happy it's Friday, I'm even happier that I still have a couple of christmas gift cards for the beer store, perhaps when Im a bakers dozen in I will have some sort of epiphany...

Replaced the engine harness Mr.Chan 12B637...going to swap in a known good PCM, wish me luck.

I've learned that it's alot nicer changing a harness on an fseries than an econoline (huh, go figure...lol)...I hadn't had any issues after harness install until I came back from lunch and went to move the truck back into the shop, no start Ficm sync vs. sync is still wonky. Recommended doing cam and crank sensors when replacing harness, so those have been changed now as well (although resistances and the signal pattern were both well within spec). FICM sync still equals no when sync equals yes. I even inserted screw driver into crank hole and try to wiggle the tone ring, no success. Now I'm really, really, really running out of ideas... It's not temperature related and the truck will usually start after you key off and then attempt again...

That's more than fair. As mentioned earlier I haven't had much "harness" experience (only on econolines, my cherry will be popped if/when I put a harness in this f-series).... I wish I could prove it was the harness before putting one in it. Then again I had an e-series where I couldn't prove it was a harness until I put one in it, nothing better than contradicting myself. Thanks again for your help guys!

Monitored FICM voltages during concern, no issues found, (12.5/48.5/12.5)...that didn't seem like a good enough answer for tech line though as they want me to install spare ficm to "give it a try"...I do not own a "known good ficm" nor do we have any six ohs on the lot that I can rob one from. Ive been sent down some wonky paths by tech line before and I just don't want to be wasting my time.....

Any chances this could be a ficm issue?

Alright. Makes sense. I haven't had much experience with harness issues and was just trying to get on the same wave length. I load tested the cam and crank circuits from the sensors to the pcm and from the pcm to ficm. Wiggling and tugging on harness still renders me with no results.. Ill spend a few more minutes but engine harness seems to be the general consensus...

What makes you say engine harness?

Random no start, usually occurs when hot. truck surges slightly at stop lights/signs (surging remedied by icp sensor). Monitored ICP pressure and voltage, voltage was slightly erratic, inspected ICP sensor and harness. Sensor leaking and pushing oil up pigtail, replaced sensor and pigtail. Performed audible hpo test, could not hear any air leaks, verified that IPR was switching correctly when manually commanded. Issue still present after repair. Monitored PIDs when issue present, found FICM SYNC and SYNC not correlating. Sync and RPM present with no start, FICM SYNC not always present. No codes in system, performed resistance test on cam and crank sensors (within spec), inspected for rust jacking behind cam sensor, performed diesel cam timing with oscilliscope and found no issues with patterns/waves. Disconnected banks tunning system, issue still present. No codes present in system, truck has no driveability concerns and performs well on road test. Customer states that the issue is only present when hot but it is so erratic that it's hard to duplicate and verify if "temperature" plays a role in this issue. ICP voltage w/no start present ranges between 1.5-1.9v Pressures range between 1400-1900psi IPR ramps to 85% when cranking (when FICM_Sync isn't prsent) and slowly drops down 10% until Ficm_Sync is reached or until cranking has ended. Having issues determining what is causing the FICM_Sync issue..is there any diag I missed performing? Any tips?

Has anyone experienced the mining fields of the Northwest Territories? I too am becoming interested in a move. Im still fairly young (24) with nothing holding me down (other than a toolbox that I am not looking forward to move)...People tell me that the Territories are where to go to make the big benjamins but then again most people I talk to are idiots.... Would Alberta be the better choice to look at?

Sweet jesus!

Not only are the machines we work on dangerous, so are the toolboxes. Was closing down shop last year and busy talking to another tech as Im pulling down the lid on my toolbox, some how didn't get my left hand out from under the lid quick enough and it chopped my middle finger down to the bone. Had to have tendons repaired and like Larry every time the weather changes my middle finger hurts

I torque everything to spec. It's the only way I can keep my mind from racing at night thinking about all of that days work. When it's re-assembled and torqued properly their is no doubt in my mind that even if something goes wrong at least I know I put everything back to factory spec and didn't miss anything.

I used to try to help people out on Powerstroke forums. Too many people try to chip in with their own "two cents worth" and have no idea what they are talking about. Contradict my information and/or my advice (very frustrating....)Soooo many idiots out there who think they are "king" when it comes to the Powerstrokes. Most of the times I feel like that Monty Python skit "MY BRAIN HURTS!!!!!!!!!!" Thank god for this site! As for injectors coming loose, when the hell has this ever happened when you properly install them? Why are you grinding down the hold down clamps? If you are so concerned about them coming loose replace the clamp with one that hasn't already had the bolt stretched.... Idiots really fire me up, I get "trolled" pretty easy hence why I only use this site and the protech message board.

I had one FICM last week where the voltages were within spec but it would constantly set all 8 injector circuit low codes. No p0611 present. As for FICMs not causing a no-start, I say poppycock to that.

yeah, it was just me being paranoid. Good to go! Thanks Brad!

Agreed! This sentence is wayyyyy to light.

Just thought I would pick your brains for a moment. Truck was towed into me from a construction company. I called an engine on it back in the fall and then they towed it back to their shop for a re+re (it was butchered). They had it running for about 5 mins and then it stalled, could not get it to restart. Had all eight injector codes as well as a p0611. They also had 9psi of ICP pressure while cranking. Truck would fail injector self test. Proved out the harness and threw a FICM in it (even though I told the company that isn't the only issue). Performed audible air test, listened for switching IPR when commanded, no noise difference heard, removed IPR. The screen was gone off of the IPR! I have seen this many a times but usually when I go into the IPR bore(in the hpop cover) with my pick to remove the screen it comes out. Well, there is no screen in the IPR bore. Verified with borescope as well as I was able to thread in spare IPR with no issue. Could/should I assume that it's still in the old engine and they never realized? Is it possible some how that it has been ingested (being paranoid?)? Thanks in advance!

We've done a dozen egr valves in our shop over the last two years, only one was able to be removed without a housing...

We sold a crap load of 6.0's and esp plans. Anytime I attempt to replace anymore than two injectors they always put the claim on hold and tell us they are sending an adjuster, the adjuster never comes and I end up getting my approval for the injectors anyways, just a way to slow me down a day or two. It gets frustrating that's for sure!

I like Bruce's method better! Why would the tool use those plastic clips/tabs on the pigtail? I see those become britle after some extended use...