Matt Saunoras

For the oil leak concern under customer pay I replace the whole pump. It's a better option for the customer due to the parts warranty. I have not done any of these under warranty in a while. I have had one vacuum pump fail and cause no vacuum and several others that filled all the lines with oil. Honestly I do not understand how it is possible for the vacuum pump to fill the whole system with oil but it is clear that it can happen.

I did get this one figured out, forgive me if I interpreted the WSM wrong but I could not get these 2.7 seals to size with the WSM method. When I would try to push the sizer over the new seal it would slide it further down the tapered portion of the injector tip distorting the seal. After removing the old seals I installed the 303-1567 tool onto the injector, then slid the new seal on using the expander. I basically sized the seals backwards which worked fine.

I did sell 8 injectors, a rail and a tune-up. I am going to replace whatever coils look bad also and remove the tank and clean. There is definitely water in this fuel, it clearly seperated as it sat longer.

What ever happened with this one? I have one here now, it's a high mileage 6.2 that runs on bank 2 until the bank 1 short fuel trims go way positive (38%) and those cylinders come back. Flex fuel pid is 85% also. First thing I found was the gas cap was off. When I hooked up the PVT/VMM and took a fuel sample something that I assume is water is also present in the fuel. My relative fuel injector test will not complete with multiple random injectors experiencing low flow. Fuel pressure and leak down were okay. For some reason whenever I was performing the relative flow test the engine ignited a small amount of spilled gas around #7. When I pulled #7 coil out the boot and coil well are filled with white corrosion. The boot is ripped also so I have no idea what else is going on .

Yeah I found the updated tool but admittedly I already screwed up 3 of the 4 new o-rings before I realized what I was doing wrong. On the 4th try I used the 303-1567 sizer but it distorted the o-ring slightly too. I guess I just need to try again.

I've got a 2.7 here getting a left head and obviously I need to swap the fuel rail over to the new head. I'm having trouble sizing the new lower Teflon seals on the old injectors. I'm using the correct tools but I can't get sizing tool over the o-ring without distorting it. Anyone done any of these and have any ideas? This would be the first ecoboost I ever worked on.

Yeah I understand the timing instructions but I had to read them 3-4 times before I really got it. Thanks for the tip on the oil seal. Edit - now that I look at the oil galley seal the old one is ripped and I ordered the wrong one from the parts picture of the front cover. The galley seal is not in the front cover picture. Guess what's on backorder

I'll start by saying I have only done one DEF contaminated fuel system and its unlikely i'll ever work on that truck again. I do not like the GSB flush procedure for heavily contaminated systems. I interpreted it the same way you did. For retail jobs I replace the fuel cooler and I am also blowing out each individual line with compressed air and brake clean. For warranty purposes with only metal contamination the flush is probably not as important, I know Fords thinking is the filters will catch any remaining metal.

We only had one here ever. Cleared it, shipped it and never saw it again

Working on that 16 F-150 that's getting a left head. It's no lie that they've really overcomplicated vehicles. This 2.7 makes a 6.7 seem not that involved. SLTS is around 17 hours if that gives you any indication.

Check EBay for sure. I replaced a broken MAC PS pulley puller that was obsolete. The new design was garbage compared to old

I heat gun the IQA label off and stick it back on with super glue. Not sure if this is going to hold up in the long term but its worth a shot if the label is lost either way

This year so far we've had our oldest standing tech retire, our tranny guy quit, the tech who was hired after him quit already, another younger guy is getting out of the business altogether and this is his last week AND finally our asset kid is going back to school next week. That will leave me, our one other SMT and a guy who just started last month who has exactly one months experience remaining in the shop. I find out we aren't hiring either, we have no adds out, nothing. I wouldn't call this growing pains, the ship is sinking and I'm ready to jump off

This is the same story all across the board now. Experienced techs are leaving so the additional workload gets jammed onto whoever else is remaining. They can try and give it a positive twist, maybe give some more money but in the end it's not going to even out. My shop is doing that right now too. I'm doing diesel, gas and transmissions. It would be fine if it was all truck work but it isn't. Anymore I really want to get out of a dealer, I keep trying to tell myself it's going to get better but it isn't. Every month it gets a little worse here

I have done about 6 on 14s and 15s.

I would not have the guts to try this on a truck. One tech that worked here a few years ago said he did it on 6.0 e-series a few times.

I have talked to a machinist friend of mine about this and he says just bolt the adapter back on and check the runout with a dial indicator. The bolts are actually listed in the parts catalog as being the same as the harmonic balancer bolts.

This truck I'm looking at has HSRs in the front and they're chunked bad from spinning in the mud. The HDRs in the rear are holding up much better. This truck is getting HDRs in the front.

Nevermind, I had no idea HSR are steer tires and HDR are drive tires.

Hey can any of you guys tell me if Continential HSR comes on the front and HDR comes on the rear of a cab and chassis F450-550 from the factory? Believe it or not we don't have one on the lot.

Bypass door broken?

So my E-450 bus with the torqshift overhaul 2 weeks ago came in today for a 15E05. Wouldn't idle worth a damn when the reprogram was done, cleaned the throttle body and all is well. Had our advisor/WA contact special services for additional time. Requested .9 got approved for .5! The damn TB pays .7 to R&I per SLTS. What a bunch of crap. I got to drive it about 15 miles when I was done to make sure the tranny is okay. It seems fine, I am always skeptical of my tranny building.

I put a blower motor and pollen filter in a 16 escape today. It was here last week and our asset kid fished a dead mouse out of the recirc door. That didn't quite fix it. There is nothing keeping critters from getting under the cowl on either side. This is going to be an issue for sure

The leak is the rear plug on the left fuel rail. I was worried I wouldn't be able to find it because the oil still has dye in it too. That wasnt the case once I got the left valvecover off and found the puddle of dye in the back of the head. Here's a better pic of the dye dripping off the rail. I took an old rail apart and it's basically just a plug and a ball that seal the ends.

Checking a brand new 6.4 drop in for a overfilled crankcase concern.