Matt Saunoras

Right as soon as my EGT 14 hit 300 degrees F it came out of idle mode just like the TSB states. In the past I have used an increased VGT duty cycle to increase exhaust temps but I'm not sure if that would help or not I'm out of diesel work too, I'm gonna take a few days next week

I managed to clear it twice and get it out of idle only mode twice. The first time it cleared after I did the dosing test and reprogram. Then I drove it and it reset within 15 miles and the message center said "engine idled soon". The next key off and back on the engine was idled. After I changed the NOX12, cleared the NOX12 tables I was able to clear the code again and perform the procedure for taking it out of idle only mode. Since then I've put 80 miles on the truck and it isn't setting any codes yet. I'm definitely shipping it today. Perhaps the 15s are different?

Got a 14 F-250 here with the infamous P207F. Did the reprogram, cleared the idle only message and about 15 miles later it reset the code. Drove another 14 F-250 and my NOX12 readings are quite a bit lower. Frequently on the truck with the concern my NOX12 readings were higher than NOX11, I don't really see how that would be possible without a biased sensor. Edit - got a sensor from a dealer about 40 miles away. They're on backorder stating "demand exceeds forecast". Does that mean these things are going bad a lot? Hahaha Btw my new NOX12 reading is just about the same as the known good truck. Got about 50 miles on it an no DTCs in sight

Had a 14 F-350 DRW in here today for an abs light and battery light. The battery light was alternator wiring that was easily fixed but the ABS not so much. Had no rear speed sensor signal if I was on the throttle but it came back on the decel. Damn thing had me scratching my head until I pulled the diff cover and found the left side bearing in about 4 pieces. Fuckers declined everything said they have a guy in house that can handle rear ends. Talked to him on the phone and he said he sets up rear ends for pulling trucks all the time. Wonderful, those skills will keep this Dana 80 on the road for another 100k

I've found with my 15 pickup it will regen every 500 miles regardless if it needs one or not.

Did another 6.0 ambulance with a split injector nozzle. This time it was #1 and they were all just replaced by me in February on this particular one. That makes 5 split nozzles in this fleet between 4 different ambulances, all ford remans, all varying mileage on the injectors. I have all of them running on new HFCMs and blue springs. None of them have ever showed signs of water in the fuel. Honesty I can't seem to make sense of it. I'm sure filter maintenance is not the best but they never get to the point of starving for fuel as far as I'm aware. Perhaps there is something going on with the fuel I'm not aware of.

I just got 21 hours to do a def contaminated fuel system. It wasnt too bad but I was hustling to get it done for the end of the month.

Yeah being in a smaller dealer I miss a lot plus I'm about 2 years behind everyone else my age. When I was in asset most guys were right out of high school and I had already been in school 2 years.

Nope I missed all the fun ones. Never worked on an Aerostar or even a Probe

We did one yesterday. It was clear the nut was welded wrong once we got in there. The one small spot that the weld did connect was cracked. I was able to make a decent pass across the nut but welding the thin body metal back into place with the gap from a cutoff wheel was a little challenging.

Check out TSB 16-0021. I don't believe I've ever seen a Ford TSB that requires welding. Are we to believe any tech is capable of this repair? I know for sure no one else in our shop could weld worth a shit if required to.

On an 04 I don't believe IDS would pull the VIN

Not exactly. VCBC9PE is an OEM PCM calibration and ARZ2AL10 is an OEM FICM calibration. Am I right thinking this is a cab and chassis truck? The P0403 and P0405 will set (soft code) if the valve is unplugged but it may not set an actual check engine light on a vehicle in excess of 14,000lbs with a blue engine sticker on the right valve cover. The cab and chassis 450-550s fall under a different emissions category where EGR may not be required for the 6.0 years. A red engine sticker indicates California emissions and those trucks always set a CEL with any EGR modifications. The blue engine sticker not usually.

The ambulance left today. Runs about as good as it could with 300k on the clock. This one is currently the oldest junkiest one they have.

Yes but what about the 15+ cab and chassis fuel systems make them not compatable with the previous years?

But what I'm really working on is a 6.0 ambulance with a split #3 injector nozzle and a stuck turbo and a 15 6.7 with DEF in the fuel which blew the return line apart when I took it for a test drive.

If you can partial cab lift it can be done without removing the turbos by running a short chain between both pedestal bolts. If you have a bus or some other kind of attached body well then I have no idea but I'd probably be taking the trans out first.

Guess who's got a pretty awesome desk setup now. All second hand stuff that's fine for what I need. Actually the tablet is our new all data scan tool that I've been left in charge of.

Is it wrong I have not sync'd my phone to my truck after having it almost a year? I'm really not sure about the gen I capabilities anymore, it's been so long since I've done anything sync related.

The bottom screen shot is what I always look for but many times I've seen the top one and I agree that indicates a concern. I most definitely had a long crank cold that looked like the top.

So far so good, truck starts fine hot and cold, ICP climbs steady like it should.

Thanks Keith. I'm satisfied for now that there are at least no more leaks under the valve covers. I'm going to put it back together and see what happens.

Would those little 4mm Allen plugs on top of the oil rail cause? I've got an 07 F-450 bucket truck here with what looks like a fairly recent jasper engine in it. Towed in for a no start hot after it was shut off and parked for 10 minutes. I get it, fires right up cold, get my EOT up to 220, shut her down and it lights right back up every time. Can't verify it. However when I let it sit overnight the next day it was slow to build ICP cold, still started but took about 3-5 seconds of cranking to do so. I have seen dummy plugs cause this but I was hesitant because of how new the engine is. Plus pulling the right valvecover with the PTO laying over it made a 20 minute job into a 2 hour job. I couldn't even get the ICP sensor out so I wound up air checking from the left side initially. But of course I did hear an air leak under the right side and when I did finally get the cover off I found that little plug on top of the oil rail was loose and the O-ring blown out. Has anyone ever seen this and if so could one of these little bastards ever be the sole source of a no-start? I actually had a pack of these plugs stashed away and when I replaced it I couldn't hear any more leaks. Checked standpipes and dummy plugs on both sides and all were good.

Heard today on the news you can put in your application to buy a new GT. Only gonna run you a cool $450k

Yup they are regular toggle switches that cut power to the injector. Bruce the truck had a P1212,1211,P1272 and a wastegate performance code. I figured possibly the P1212 had not cleared from when the truck had injectors put in it but otherwise the truck started fine and ICP voltage was reading correctly the whole time I had it. The P1272 #2 high to low side open failed on the KOEO injector self test every time until I plugged in my own IDM, then it cleared and self test was a pass. It also may have not been warmed up enough when I checked PERDELs. I really can't remember. Here is the kill box all taped up. The 90 degree connector that goes into the engine harness runs toward the firewall when plugged in to avoid the intake duct and cac hoses.