Matt Saunoras

On the v10 when my fuel pressure was low, 20-25 psi the manual gauge matched the FRP pid. After I replaced the pump the FRP was reading about 6-7 psi higher than the actual gauge. I forgot to mention that with pressure so low the IDS would not let me run the fuel system test, it failed it in the red for pressure. After pump replacement the test went right through. The transit was a 2015. I'll have to double check the PC/ED, initially I couldn't find the info I was looking for

Fuel pump fixed the v10, fuel pressure switch fixed the transit. Tomorrow got a 15 F-250 6.7 with no brake assist, ordered a vacuum booster for it. That'll be the first one of those I'll change.

yup I saw that, thanks

Got a 09 F-550 v10 dump here with lean codes and an FRP performance code. Another shop put a pump, sensor, filter and FPDM in it. In the shop I'm only seeing 20-25 psi of fuel pressure checked manually before the filter. This syncs up with my FRP reading fine. Even full fielding the pump by bypassing the driver still results in low pressure. Good voltage, no resistance or voltage drop in any of the circuits. Can't figure out what it could be besides the new fuel pump, I'm going to SPW one and see. Gassers should have much more fuel pressure correct?

Got a damn transit 3.2L in here with a P008A and P262A in memory, low pressure fuel switch doesn't go to "not-low" with the key on. Checked fuel pressure with 2 different gauges and its 10 psi (which it says no where that is within acceptable limits EXCEPT in the coffee table book). The fuel filter is clean but the the fuel switch reads open all the time. After a few hours of fucking around and second guessing myself I ordered a fuel delivery pressure switch for it, btw no procedure in the WSM for changing it. Had to go to the parts catalog to see if it was even serviceable separately.

I had one of those secondary water pump hose o-rings leaking recently too.

That is the line that goes from the secondary fuel filter housing to the high pressure pump, it runs under the right side of the low pressure turbo. 8C3Z-9C330-B is the number On retail jobs I also quote 8C3Z-9B337-A which contains a check valve for the HPFP return side. I don't believe the job aid has you changing this but I do.

I have a pinion flange holding tool I made that basically boxes the flange and either wedges on the spring or on the floor, it works very well for s110/s130. I think there's a pic in the gallery if you care to look. That nut is 800+ lb/ft of torque and I need my 3/4" ratchet with a cheater to loosen it. A good 3/4" impact will do it too. Edit - here's a pic, the top one works for the rectangular flange. The overall length is about 36" iirc

That sounds like what I go through. Either doing everyone else's comebacks or all of the crap they can't handle while the other guy here picks up the easy diesel repairs because I'm so behind. I've always been a little bitter about how this industry is but it's growing more and more by the day.

Wherever they go I don't put them on.

Those are the only trucks I've ever put engines in also

I have been removing the EGR cooler and crankcase vent canister to access the injectors which has worked well so far. I do believe around 25 hours would be fair but don't be surprised if you can only get 13-15 hours warranty. This is what is wrong with flat rate. Making it in 18 is doable but only after you've done a few.

Frozen caliper pins can also give soft pedal

Tool insurance is something I've thought about in the last few years. I really wonder how my boss would handle the loss of my tools in an event like this. I guess it's time to ask, I do have a lot more than the average technician.

Well this has definitely been a learning experience. I'm not done with reassembly yet but I feel like I'm in the clear. The rear half is ready to go on in the morning. So far the trans feels much smoother than it did prior to disassembly. The first pic is the new 5th gear on the counter shaft and new pocket bearing inner race on the output shaft. Those were the 2 hardest things I encountered with this trans. If you need to press the 5th or 6th gear off the counter shaft you better have one hell of a press. The WSM says you may need up to 18k lbs to get these gears off. Needless to say our shitty damn press was not up to the task. The book says not to heat the gear but I tried anyways, it did absolutely nothing but make our press frame bend into a shape not commonly seen. The truck shop down the street has a 40 ton press so once again they bailed me out. It only took 3 tons to get the gear off so it shows how weak our press really is. As for the pocket bearing inner race there is no foreseeable way to reasonably get this damn thing off . There is a small round snap ring above it that does zero job holding it in place, this thing is pressed on tight. After fucking around for a half hour I finally figured out what to do. With a cutoff wheel I ground 2 opposing notches in it. I tightened my bearing splitter into the notches and pressed on the shaft with a 13mm socket. Once I had the inner race off the output shaft a little bit then I finished it off with a diagonal slice with the cutoff wheel. Cracked the race and off it came. Also don't worry if 4th gear wont go in until the countershaft bolt is in and tight and the center support is snugged down. For me the countershaft didn't go all the way into the front bearing initially. The WSM wants the trans locked in 4th and 6th to torque the bolt, I wound up doing it in 3rd and 5th. Once everything was seated 4th was fine

Nah this engine is a jasper reman that's only a few years old. The injector cups in it are still bright and shiny so that may have something to do with it. Likely the color is more pronounced because of my phone. I don't actually know but if the injectors physically contact the cup that would explain it too.

Finished those 7.3 injector o-rings today. Also did a 6.4 EGR valve and mixing bowl, the easy way of course. Looked at a 12 F-550 dump that needs balljoints and an E-brake control. That's for tomorrow. All my parts are here for the 6.7 shortblock and the MT-82 trans. Not really looking forward to either one. I'm probably going to have to build the MT at night. The trans is torn down on the other side of the shop near the press, I'm not sure I can handle being over there with the other fine quality techs we have.

My 06 set a P0401 but only when outside temp was above the 50s. I had tunes written for it to turn the cel off.

Until today I have not seen any EBP or connector issues on a 6.7 This is a 15 F-550 with about 45k miles. I saved a good, previously replaced, EBP connector from a 6.0 main harness replacement and just made the repair by splicing in a gently used terminal. Further up the wire of course.

#1 and #3 middle o-rings worn out on that 7.3

5th gear blocker looks okay but I went and double checked. 2nd is a little burned up looking so I'm going to replace it. I'm not familiar with MT repair but the parts for this thing seem to be insanely cheap in cost.

It's funny, the WSM has you warming the input shaft bearing in the case to install the input shaft. They want you using a heat gun. Encased in aluminum I'd think that bearing takes a while to warm up.

Anyone had the pleasure of disassembling one of these yet? We've got an early 11 mustang here, sold at another dealer, brought to our sister Lincoln store for repair, then they passed it off on us. Now I never heard the noise because I didn't start working on it but the customer stated it had noise in 1st, 2nd and 3rd gears and I believe while it was idling in neutral. I remember hearing a few years ago these MT-82s were junk but we don't sell many mustangs and work on even less. A quick Internet search confirmed the 11-12s can be hit or miss. Our tranny guy is "sick" so I tore this one down. Pressing this thing apart was the hardest part. I had to run down to the truck shop down the road and borrow an OTC 1041 2/3 jaw puller. This worked good enough but it was still a little scary. I also used the rear flange nut to press against when removing the 1st and reverse gears, then again to remove the center support. This puller worked well enough for all the pulling jobs this tranny required. Fitting the case in our shop press? Once again not easy but doable to remove the counter shaft and input shaft. I'm thinking the noise this tranny had was likely the input shaft pocket bearing, it felt the roughest of them all and showed minor scoring. I'll also be replacing the front input and counter shaft bearings along with the center support bearings. The input shaft and 5th gear teeth have odd wear on them probably due to the looseness of the input bearing. Other than that the unit is clean inside, no damage to any of the synchros that I can see (low miles). The input shaft and pocket bearing kit are updated part numbers. Of course the pocket bearing kit is on backorder, we're getting one sent in from another dealer.

Our tranny guy has an MT-82 out of an 11 mustang that has some kind of bearing noise. We are in no way equipped to do manual transmission work, no pullers here of any kind and the shop press is a joke. Hot plate? Forget about it. He's called off the last 2 days and the customer is in an uproar. This job has been passed on by 2 other dealers and now its here and my problem now. The best part of it all? It's ESP powertrain care

I have an 2006.1 VCM disc that I used to back date my IDS and reflash my old 2006 6.0L. This disc had the original non-inductive heat strategy for the FICM so it would have been the middle of 2006 for the post shutdown buzz.