Matt Saunoras

I've gotta assume the only reason I'm around is to do someone else's job when we have a guy call off. If I ever did call off, which I never have, I bet no one would be taking my place for the day.

Thanks for the info! Got another 00 7.3 here for some driveabilty issues that I can't get to act up. It definitely misses and carries on when it's cold but after its warm it runs fine. Checked most of the usual stuff but the only thing I found was a dark gray and silver cam sensor installed. This is the OBS sensor if I recall correctly. Would it make any difference? The old sensor has an international number on it. 1876736C91 The new light gray ford sensor says 1876735C91. Switching the sensors dust make any difference in the perdels even after I cleared KAM. I checked fuel pressure, fuel inlet restriction and oil level/aeration and it was all okay. Even though this truck only has 67k miles I bet it needs injectors.

Thanks for the input Bruce. This customer has a fleet maintenance company that deals with repair costs. I like to at least try and know what I'm talking about before calling them. I am going to sell additional diag to remove the injectors and inspect. I have the tool to vacuum test the injector for an internal leak. Is this a viable test?

Got an 02 7.3 bucket truck here. Towed in, lost power shut off and won't restart. Verified no ICP. Check Oil level, none on the stick. Checked HPOP reservoir, it's dry. Added 10 qts to the pan and 1 qt to the reservoir. Drove it around, runs fine. Checked the fuel filter housing and the fuel is black with oil. What do you guys usually do here? Do you sell 8 injectors or do you remove them all and check the O-rings and bench test? This engine had been replaced recently but I'm not sure the extent of what was done. Has anyone ever seen this be a cup or head issue?

Before I tore this thing down I went in and wrote down hours, idle hours, then went in pids and wrote oil change days, last oil change mileage, oil life remaining values just incase they asked. They didn't.

We only have prior approval for long blocks and completes so if I were to cost cap and the decision was to replace then I might have to send in pics. Otherwise, like the one i'm doing now, a shortblock, one head, one injector and a turbo would not require any approval. I usually submit a hotline to discuss the root cause and related damage but they have never asked for pics. Perhaps if there was a question of a warrantable condition they may ask for pics. Typically I write pages and pages of notes on the RO, if there is any question on the claim after the fact and the RO is faxed to be manually reviewed there won't be an issue. Just document your exact failures, related damage and hang on.

Well it started because its easier to pull engines that way. The racks are too close to the wall for my liking. I'd be standing on top of my boxes and bench if I pulled in. I feel like to have more room to move around if I work in the middle of the shop. Also my left bay is right next to the shitter. Not a good corner to be in....ever.

Still working on this big old turd. Super happy with the way it runs now.

Want to clean an EBP tube fitting on a 6.0? 7/32 stubby drill bit with some tape on the end. Finger drilled right through that plugged up fitting. I do the same thing for the map port but I can't remember the drill size.

Had some lower rear door latches frozen on a 15 F-150 super cab a month or so ago (TSB). Well the latches finally came in today. The rear lower cables actually pulled through the handle. That wasnt too big of a deal. Got the rears done thinking that wasnt too bad but the TSB wants you to remove and lube the fronts also. That's where they screw you. No wonder no one wants to do this anymore.

This is the reason for the long block TSB. Had that piece chipped all the way off you would have been looking at a lot more damage Also I have never seen a valve failure in that manner but if assume it's related to all the other valve cracking issues the earlies had.

This one I have the engine out of....it has 3 broken injector hold down clamps on the left side. #7 injector was frozen in the bore. Could have easily broken the special tool but I stopped and put on the brain hat for a minute. Cut an injector line, removed the fitting and welded it to a 5/8" fine thread nut. Same size as your typical slide hammer. Took about 10 wacks but it came out, the head is ruined. Don't mind the shitty welds, I'll make a better attempt later when I have more time

Man I hate pulling these things with the converter attached. If the cab couldn't be partial lifted I'd say this would be impossible. I'd rather not discuss the trouble I went through due to salt and the PTO leak.

That's what I'm working on now too.

I take my own aluminum, mostly diesel radiators and 6.0 oil coolers. The other guy on my side of the shop takes everything he gets, mostly rotors. Our boss wanted to put a stop to that and pocket the money but nothing ever became of it. If upper management wants to collect scrap then they can damn sure do what they please but since we have no porters, lot attendants or janitors who is going to collect it up? It isn't gonna be me and no one else around gets their hands dirty.

Yeah all the extra effort to save a $50 manifold, what's it really worth? Is ford or even the dealership really going to appreciate it? Not a chance in hell. I go to my manager with correct punch times for drilling and installing those and since it was just an EGR valve replacement he'd rather have the small claim than to submit what the repair actually took.

Timeserted this manifold. Came out well considering I was drilling freehand. The right hole I didn't countersink far enough and I had to file the insert a little to get it flush. Talked to a buddy of mine at another dealer. They just replace manifolds, he said they've been breaking a ton of these.

Keith IDS v99.01 was what I had yesterday when I saw it on the 14 F-550 I was working on. Today with IDS v99.02 on a 2012 F-450 it is not there I swear I saw it.......

Did anyone notice on a 6.7 when you reset/clear specified function there is one parameter called "turbo system?" I never noticed this before. I remember all the usual MAF, EGR, NOx, DPF, WIF, HPF, etc.

I shipped the 14 F-550 with a new MAP sensor. The old sensor koeo was reading a half psi lower than baro KOEO. I put the turbo on it almost 5k miles ago Also doing another F-550 for a P2073. Broke the damn up-pipe bolts off in the manifold so I've been drilling those for about an hour now. The good news is my M6 timesert kit should be waiting for me at home today. Edit - oh yeah and there used to be nothing I thought I couldn't extract with a welder. The first few I broke in the manifold came right out. Not anymore, these fuckers tighten right up and basically lock into place. What a disaster

There used to be a TSB for 15 pickups that had you reflash for a P259F. The code doesn't apply to cab and chassis trucks which set P0234 instead. I'm not sure what's going on yet.

Got a 13 or 14 F-550 outside with a repeat P0234. This is the one I put a turbo in about a month ago and when I went to drive it post repair the IDS pulled HS-CAN down and the truck went nuts. I never really got to verify the fix or find out what was going on at the DLC. Also got a call from a guy Sunday that runs a 15 F-550 service truck for my best fleet customer. He threw a P0234 and the truck derated just driving flat on the highway.

First thing I think of is a weak hpop, especially since it's an 04. I have had a handful of the textbook sawtooth ICP no starts but then again I have had a few bad pumps that didn't do that. The last one I had would start and run at like 3-400 RPM, IPR was maxed out and ICP was just barely enough to stay alive with no load on the engine. Drop it in gear and it would die. Checked the IPR, swapped it out with a known good, no change. Put a pump in it and it was fine. Also had one the pump body was cracked, it ran fine but wouldn't hold desired ICP under load. I have not had injectors that would cause low ICP when cold unless it was one with a completely blown out top o-ring. You could try air checking it with the oil filter cap off, that seems to be a good tell for a bad hpop.

Don't you love it? Parts is a hot button for me lately.

Okay I got a little lesson in fuel tanks today and now I probably forgot something useful. The E-350 cutaway came with a 37 gal tank or an optional 55 gal tank. The 37 has 2 straps, the 55 has 3. That's the quick ID. The E-450 has a 55 gal standard. The 55 gallon tank is 6" longer, on my particular van the 55 would not fit due to the location of the last crossmember and the rear axle. The F-series has the 40 gallon tank that Titan sells, it is not the same shape and does not bolt in the same way as an E-series. Maybe some older E-series take this tank, I'm not sure. This is the tank that is supported by the large metal shield. Titan says the 37 gallon tanks aren't that common so they don't make a replacement.....And what is the only E-series tank we've ever sold? you guessed it, 37 gallon.