djmiller

I do it the way Keith does it, though I often just do it with the truck on the ground.

Volume is worthless if the dollars aren't there. Fixing 10 truck a day is no good if you dont get paid anything to do it! YSFL was looking for a foreman in Jan. if i recall. Any idea who picked that up? I thought about applying, but too far to drive, and I'm pretty happy here.

They call this the "Flywheel housing" between the eng and trans. Yep there is a plate and gasket there that blocks a coolant port. I've had to fix a couple the "proper" way, and I've also fixed a couple with a few of thsoe Delco stop leak cakes in the rad hoses and a good long hot road test. Your/ your customers call on how to proceed. Make sure the bolt holes aren't stripped out in the housing. (alum).

Easiest thing is to just slip it into netural an roll the chasis a few inches. Alternatively. Deflating the tires on one side will "tilt" the frame in/down on one side a couple of inches and MAY give you the clearance you need. Reg cabs I strap it to the hoist through the windows just to be safe. They can be tippy SOBS.

Where are these mid 40s stores Alex?? If they're in our neck of the woods I need to be there!

We have a fleet customer with dozens of 6.0 E-Series. BG Intake/EGR Service every 25 000. No EGR/coking issues. We use it as a preventative maintenance measure, not a cure for already present issues. If you use it on heavily coked engines, we had a couple that blew all the crap into the EGR cooler inlet and turns it into a solid brick of carbon. Usually throw a P1335 after that, and you end up doing EGR Cooler/oil cooler. After the service is done you are also suppused to run it a bit with the EGR out of it to blow loose bits out, so they don't end up jamming the valve once it gets 5 mins down the road. Used as a PM measure = excellent. Used as a repair to existing problems = Fail

I've only seen 2, and both had associated DTCs set.

If you check the WSM, a 6.4 DPF is to be removed and cleaned at 200 000 km (ok 192 to be exact), and replaced at 400 000km. It also states the the DPF can only be cleaned once. This is to remove small amounts of soot/ash that are not removed by normal re-gen and can accumulate over time. I doubt any of these things ever lasts to 200k, but that's what the blue oval says. No as more wet contamination, I have no idea if that can be cleaned or not. I have removed DPFs for cleaning, but make sure you order the pressure sensor, the EGRT, the hardware kit, and the other nipple that will strip/break off. For those of you boys in the GTA, Peterbilt in Miss. on Eglinton will do this. Also A&A Exhaust in Hamilton offers the service, and will often pick up and delver. Edit: Also I beleive they use a "Thermal" cleaning"

I have no issues with the composite pan. Though I did have a good laugh when our 60 year old front end guy gave himself a shower with his first 6.7 oil change.....Head to toe..... lol

So did these places get new managers? I just saw the Shanahan is in the market for one now.

Update to this: 1) Try lifting up on the cab with the bolts stil done up to stress the cage nuts. Just a couple of inches to put some force on it. Bam. Impact wrench. Out. The front 2 can be finicky with this. A bit of heat on them and they practically fall out after. Or just save them for last and lift the body a little more. 2) Search the TSBs and print hard copies in case they disappear. There are 2 related to cage nuts. One SPECIFICALLY says to use an air impact wrench to remove them. The other SPECIFICALLY says NOT to use air tools to remove the bolts. DUUUHHH.... they totally conflict each other. Anyone, one of the, has an MT op for removing cab bolts. Though there are labour ops, TSB supersedes SLTS according to warranty, right? If something becomes a TSB we have to use it regardless of how crappy the time becomes. So use it to your advantage on this one and clock the MT you need. If they ask why it took so long, say you used air tools according the first bulletin.....ring around the roooosie.....lol

Did the debit queen tell you this, or did you find out on your own?? I could've sworn I'd submittted some later than that, but they may have covered it due to it being damaged by oil contamination after HP turbo failure.

The paint jobs stink, both to look at and to smell. My theory is if you wedge a 6.0 into an Econoline, and the guy who rebuilt in screwed up and the bedplate leaks, it's pretty tough for the customer to notice a diesel oil leak on an engine coated black all over. POOF! All of a sudden there are fewer warranty claims for leaks on FQR engines for 2 bucks worth of paint.... I've done a 6.0 and a 6.4 within the last 6 weeks that were both coated.

A few Escape pieces come in a Mazda box, inside a Ford box too don't they? I vaguely remember something about Mazda brakes being far cheaper to buy.

I would think it is more likely that the chip would increase the pulse width and adjust the timing as opposed to trying to run things at a higher voltage. 734-222-5228 is their free tech support.

Early d-max injectors were kinda junky. GM gave em special coverage up to 300K. Balance rate over 4 in either direction - give 'er an 8 pack.

Cruickshank, Yorkdale..... They're dropping like flys...