lmorris

Now since updating to IDS 81 and 81.01 we have nothing but issues....

Ya, And techs that, like myself, miss the SSM and replace the solenoid anyways....good thing they are a quick repair.

If you read the service manual you will see the added line: Inspect intake gaskets and replace if necessary, gaskets are re-usable.

Just received our 2nd today. Reprogrammed a 6.7L with no issues. Our tune tech has had issues, but we think it's because he has a lot of security on his IDS laptop.

Let me clarify something. I use the large square scotchbrite pads, not the small rotary ones. I then blow the crap out of the coolant passages in the heads to get the little bits out. You don't have to get mid-evil with the scotchbrite pad, but sometimes I get some crap in the passages.

I use a brass scraper with brake clean. Then finish off with a scotchbrite pad.

Same, I have one 18000 lb hoist and I share a flat bay with the other diesel tech. There is enough room for 3 trucks and an engine on the stand in our area. Very nice.

Moving into our new shop. Dealing with some issues that are to be expected. Here is a link to some pics. https://plus.google.com/photos/111134555...=COro4_GEn8rzPg Once we are in completely I will get some more posted.

Maybe, if we ever get the tuning figured out. What a frigging gong show. The supplied SCT tuner won't work. The fuel pump booster box needs a pressure switch input from somewhere, but the install instructions don't mention where to install the supplied pressure sensor. To top it all off we start the big move to the new shop tomorrow and this thing won't run....

550 HP Shelby in for an 800 HP supercharger upgrade.

With mudding, the rule is less is more. Get the widest trowl you can find and drag the mud at least 5 inches out from the corner. The last corner I mudded took me 5 or 6 thin layers, and about a week to do, but it beats the hell out of sanding 98% of the mud off after it dries. What I also did was after the tape was in place I pushed on the tape hard enough to collapse the drywall slightly, this takes out the bump at the edge of the tape. You can try this with edging as well. Good luck.

I guess I have been lucky enough to work on regularly maintained hoists. All I have to do is lube my slides, keep the arms clean, and, as you said, torque the mounting bolts. It was explained to me years ago how to adjust the cables to balance the two sides, but lack of needing to perform this task has caused it to wander from memory. The only issue I have had with my Rotary 12000 lb was a blown hydrualic line, thank fully the hoist was at the position I as able to work at, so no down time, and the locks worked. At our new shop I get a brand new Bendpack 18000 lb hoist and we will continue from there. BTW, if he had posted about the floor being sloped, I never would have suggested the cable method. We had a hoist put into our old wash bay and the installer had to shim it up to level, then poured concrete under the posts for support. Do it right...

Most retail parts we put in, mostly at the customers request, do not cover labour in there policies. We have an International dealer just down the road from us and it would be most beneficial to start getting parts from them. Can anyone answer how International is as far as warrantying there parts labour wise?

Quick update: Edge is now up to par with Ford.

There is no easy way to bleed these. Ford came out with a full kit, master, line and slave, prebled, to solve this. The way we used to do it was to take the slave out of the transmission and hold it so the pushrod points down. Slowly work the pushrod through the full travel a few times with someone watching the res for air. Once you can go a few sweeps with no visible air bubbles you should should be ok.

I believe you can adjust the cables to fix that.

The high pressure turbo(driver's side) is on 2 dowel pins. Soak them for a bit then use 2 pry bars and rock it loose. Remember the two big ass hold down bolts as Keith mentioned.

We are starting to see a lot of 2012's coming in with low DEF warnings when the tank is full. We know it's the level sensor failing, but they range from 7000 KM to 20000 KM. There is nothing in OASIS on this yet. Has anyone else noticed this trend. Possibly bad batch of sensors.

I have seen intake gaskets leak this way. Depending on which side it leaks from it can, and I did, be mistaken for a leak between the head and rocker support.

The last reprogram I did was in this order, PCM, GPCM, NOX, then the TCM. I was starting to think it was not going to do the TCM. Why they keep changing things around is quite baffling.

At least this one is honest. Most say, "Sure I maintain it regularly."

That is exactly what happened. I know because I did the same thing on the last gas long block I installed.

Bang on there Jim. We are pretty sure this is the problem. Didn't think to check the BOA pids when it was in, will if it comes back. In the mean time I had a discussion with the second customer and he is going to do his own testing with the 2 foot theory and see if he is indeed 2 footing it. Then he will let us know how things went.

I think it depends on who you get and when. We have had photo requests on some and others nothing. No rhyme or reason. If you are absolutely certain, and I am sure you are, I would go ahead with the tear down, you know you will find a blown gasket, so it should be good to go once they get the photos. The only piss off will be waiting for the go ahead.

There is indeed an new diesel engine coming. His take is that there is nothing that different on the new one to need training for.