lmorris

There are too many differences between the two engines to list. The only way to use the 96 engine IMHO, would be to strip it down to a bare long block and transfer everything from the 99 engine. Don't forget to plug the hole in the valley where the lift pump used to be. And plug off the fuel ports in the heads that don't get used by the 99 return-less fuel system. I offer no guarantees on this advise as I personally would not attempt it. If you don't have the 99 engine to pull parts from then stop now don't attempt.

Then those are the ones we buy. And she still insists on trimming the hot dog before she will eat it.

When you say skinless are you referring to the plastic type sleeve and they come linked? We typically buy Burns or Schiender's, and they don't have the extra sleeve. And I still have to cut off the "SKINS" as my daughter puts it. We were at Great Wolf Lodge just south of Seattle and they actually did it for us when we asked for a steak knife to do it ourselves. Yesterday I actually restrained myself and threw them out. No more for me.

Answer me this. Do you have to peel the hot dogs for your kids? I don't mind hot dogs. It's the ends and skins I am getting sick of. Seeing as I feel obligated to eat them instead of throwing then out.

Sure as shit, it showed up at the same time. All we got was an advanced notice. Used the info supplied by Keith, so we shall see if it goes through.

Yep, and the ones they find, they fill with windshield washer fluid.

The EGR cooler bypass outlet pipe gaskets listed as BC3Z-9E464-C are the wrong parts. You need BC3Z-9E464-B instead. If you order the "C" you get the o-rings that go between the valve cover and EGR cooler housing.

TSB 10-18-1 on an 09 F150. Then a turbo on a 6.7L. Then headgaskets on a 6.4L.

We just got V79 this morning. I wonder if they will release the TSB now that we have access to the program update.

And if that doesn't work...shut the fuck up, just say'n. I have worked with, and told off my share of negative nellies, nobody needs to hear the constant bitching if you are not willing to make a change.

Funny thing is, here we see a lot of ads for non-dealership repair facilities that claim to have "Factory trained technicians". So if dealership "factory trained techs" are the bad guys, what makes the others so special? And those stupid Lube City commercials don't help either. I am surprised nobody has attempted to launch a lawsuit against them.

Both the single and dual stage turbos are VGT controlled. Only the dual stage turbo has the wastegate. All chasis cabs get the single stage turbo regardless of GVW. BTW: This one sounds like a turbine engine on take-off. Pretty sure it will need a new turbo. Thanks for the list.

If the concern happened after the repair, is it possible some crap fell into the coolant lines during the repair? Or was the condition there before and just not caught by anyone else until the repair was done?

Did you remove your sunglasses Horatio Caine style when you typed that?

If the truck is a regular cab or extended cab you can remove all but the rear body mount bolts/nuts and tilt the cab enough to slide the pipes out from behind to turbo. You may have to remove the FICM as well, but not sure, it's been awhile. Loosen stuff as necessary to tilt safely. I would also change both pipes at this point as it is mostly the right side that fails.

I have an F350 ch/cab with a single stage turbo that is noisy as hell. First off the training and WSM are messed up because according to them an F350 cannot have a single stage turbo because it is under the 12,000 LB GVW stated in the WSM. But it does because wide frame/narrow frame determine turbos not GVW. Got that all figured out. Now hotline wants me to perform 12B34, a reprogram for turbo noise. Guess what, I can't find it. Has anyone State side performed this and can you provide any feed back as to what it entails and any results as far as turbo noise go?

The only thing that I know of that waits 30 seconds after key off to do anything is the EGR cooler bypass valve vacuum actuator solenoid.

Could it be possible that the bolts were over torqued during assembly? Or possibly poor metal quality of the bolts?

Those older ones tend to have sticky EBP valves. Unhook the arm and see if you can move the valve.

Most likely is that the coolant dropped low enough to overheat the heads and fuel in coolant is the result. Whether or not it cracked the head needs to be determined. Follow the 6L guide to check the injector cups. If you verify a leaking cup then you may also want to pull the heads and check for warpage. If you can't pinpoint it to a cup then you need to change the heads regardless.

The smell of burgers cooking on the BBQ....I LOVE FRIDAYS.

http://voices.yahoo.com/five-disadvantages-wind-power-407926.html No matter where we get our energy, there are going to be disadvantages and issues that others will try to exploit, and shun those who use it. The rest of the world needs to buck up and realize we humans have become dependent on this energy to get through the day. We didn't start the trend, but as a result we need to continue it.

Look for other signs of coolant leaks. Egr coolers don't typically start leaking unless the coolant level gets low. Also pull the water pump and look at the front cover for cavitation damage also caused by low coolant. Fuel in the coolant may be related to the EGR cooler leak, but maybe not. Fuel can get into the coolant if the head or the injector cup are cracked.

Transmission bulk head connector sleeve and front pump adapter seal on a 2009 F150.

Crap load of diesel oil changes, fuel filters, and 12b33 recalls. Making a freaking killing here folks.