amailloux

I have one of these. I can not open the links from Brad. Can anyone give me a recap of parts that must be replaced?

I put a high pressure pump in it. test drove and had 3 psi on the low side. I tested and had good voltage and ground at the lift pump. I replaced the lift pump and now I have 6 psi. I again drove until the fuel temp is 150, and the vehicle cranks and starts, but has a slightly extended crank. maybe 4 seconds until pressure builds. I then ran until the fuel was in the 160's and it had an even longer crank, but does start. maybe 5 to 6 seconds. When I drive normal, fuel temp is around 125 to 135, so I don't think the issue will happen again, I am just unsure of the extended crank hot. I did not perform the fuel return port leak test, or inverse test. Is it possible I may have 1 or more injectors returning fuel hot, enough to make it an extended crank. I am going to let the truck go, but am wondering if there is more going on. Has anyone had a fuel injector leak on the return that caused a no start? Immediately after startup, I can run the high pressure test and it passes when hot. thoughts?

08 brought in, customer complaint is when slowing down, engine died, crank no fire, let set 30 minutes, restarted ok and appears good now. Happened 2 times. i found p2463 and p246c stored. Truck completed regen 30 miles ago, shows. test drive and dpf pids are all ok. checked maf, in spec, air filter dirty, replaced. egr ok. so i decide to run a service regeneration and during the regen, the truck dies and is a crank no start. grab fuel pressure gauge, 6 psi when cranking, actual fuel pressure slowly builds to 1500 psi and it will not start. vcv is 40-45% and pcv is 35%. ect and eot at about 210 degrees. fuel rail temp is 150 ish. i let set, and when fuel rail temp dropped to 140, the truck fired right up. i performed the high pressure fuel system test and it passes. i drive hard and get the temp up again, pull over and the truck does not die, but when shut off is a crank no start, low pressure untill fuel temp drops to 145 ish. fuel sample is ok. power balance shows ok, cranking compression shows #2 5% low. This is the second truck with this concern. the other truck had a restricted oil cooler also so I put a new cooler and hp fuel pump in. Is anyone else seeing this issue hot only. I am leaning toward reccomending a fuel pump at this point. Any thing else I should consider before making the call. I can duplicate and took a snapshot.

I had a guy walk in with the top loop of the wheel in his hand. It just "broke off". Looks like a cast aluminum maybe 3/4 inch inside. It was not a cheap repair.

Well, I got a chassis harness for $250 usd. repaired the truck harness using the connector shell and terminated leads. repaired the diff speed connector and life is good. I have a bunch of chassis connectors now, and wiring for future repairs.

Hi guys, I have a broken c110 connector on the left shock tower. now it is full of corrosion and setting codes for egt sensors, and the cam lock is broken. I can't find a shell available, and the rear lamp harness is hard to get. Does anyone have a way to get a pigtail or shell? I know these are brokena lot. Thanks

I had a left hand exhaust manifold gasket blown out making the same noise you describe.

Do perforated front covers allow enough oil in to discolor the degas bottle? I have only had 1 other and the crankcase was filling with coolant fairly quickly, or is it more likely the cooler leaking oil into coolant? It is a retail job for a very good customer. most likely going to replace oil cooler when turbos are off, and pull water pump and most likely replace front cover. Maybe over repairing, but I'll let the customer decide.

I pulled in an f550 2008 with leaking turbo drain. I popped the radiator cap and there is a dark oily film on the bottle walls. The coolant does not have an oily film on it. I began draining the coolant, by the way it was full, and there doesn't appear to be oil in my buckets. Then I looked in the bottom of the degas bottle and there are metal flakes. I do know the truck has had an egr cooler, and had coolant leaks in the past. I was wondering if front cover cavitation and perforation will allow just a small amount of oil in the coolant, and will it just stick to the bottle? At this point I am set on pulling the water pump for inspection, but what about the oil cooler. I will already have the turbos off, and I fear it will have shavings in it, or it may have a very small leak into the coolant. What do you think. Truck has just under 90k.

What is your maf reading when cranking.

Hi guys, I have a 2008 f-350 with 240k miles on the clock. it was towed in with an overheating complaint and then was a crank no start. I hooked up IDS and had p012f, p1335, p246c and p2463 in the ecm. freeze frame for p012f showed ect was 192. There are no signs the vehicle overheated, but the egr cooler hoses did leak very bad cold at high idle. degas bottle was full. As far as I know, customer did not top off coolant. So truck cranks up and runs fine. i clear codes and monitor ect and eot and eot gets over 250 degrees with ect at 195 after 20 miles or so, no other issues i can see. I stop in the parking lot and shut the truck off, and it is a crank no start. check engine oil level, not overfull. FRP cranking is only 2000 psi cranking. I test low side and have pressure and flow. Truck sets for 10 minutes, oil temp drops t0 215 and the truck starts. I run at high idle untill oil temp is 250 and it is a crank no start again. easily duplicated. I run the high pressure test hot nad it passes. Seems Like I have a weak pump. If I just put an oil cooler in it now, it will probably be ok due to eot never getting that high again, but... should I reccomend a pump at this time and inspect for any debris. No p0088 or p0087 stored. No pump replace in history. What do you think?

Here it is. The ass clowns that came and installed it couldn't figure out how to assemble the locks, so they put the covers on upside down and loose, and they were upset when they hit rebar. Dude, what did you expect drilling into a concrete shop floor. I had to tighten almost all of the bolts after they left, some anchor bolts were 3 turns from 110 lb.ft. They also didn't hook up the air for the locks, as they are "not plumbers", and the electrical had to be done by another company, as they were not certified to do electrical. I should have just installed it myself. Anyway, It lifted this truck with a massive hydraulic tank run off a pto. Gross for the truck is listed at 17,500 lbs. on the door placard, my guess is it is a little over.

I am running the solus,updated regularly and it great. I bought auto enginuity and it was terrible on speed, and anything body. I was in contact with them for a while and decided to just return it. I have used the modis, and would not purchase one. I work with a guy who owns the verdict! And it is pretty slick in that it is windows based, has a touch screen, and you can download all kinds of software on it. I installed ids on it and it worked, although the processor speed is slow. I have owned or used the genesys based tools and there are very slow and lack a bunch of information and functionality. I would stay away from the genesys tools. I worked next to a beta tester for snap on and I can say that in the lt 2 to 3 years I have seen them drastically upgrade Coverage and functionality. If you have software over 3 years old, be aware that you will be missing a lot of output, and body stuff. I would look very closely at what makes you are going to be servicing. For me it is 80 percent ford and gm, and 20 percent other makes. So I own a vcm, ids subscription and run that on a dell laptop. I own a fully updated tech 2. By the way, all 2014 and up gm vehicles will use gds, and not the tech 2, and some 2010 and up require gds. I own a gm mdi and run tech 2 win and gds on a $650 touchscreen tm2t. I own a very well updated solus, and a snap on vantage pro scope and meter. My solus has euro, and rarely send out vehicles for diag. I am waiting for a smoking deal on a solus ultra, so I can trade up. The coverage on the solus, ultra, and verdict are all very very close, so a good priced updated solus would be great, just lacks the touchscreen interface, and the bling.

Is it normal for the rear diff fluid from the factory to be dark gray. I took a sample from a 9000 mile truck and have never seen fluid this dark gray. seems to be suspended but after setting for 12 hours it hasn't collected at the bottom. i found no ssm's or tsb's for super duty rear fluid. I can get a picture if anyone really wants one.

4l80s and 4t80s default to 2nd with no power to the trans.

Got word today SPO18n310 bl. 18K 16 ft tall. From rotunda $11499. Price is really good compared to other vendors. I'm pretty ramped up for it. Now how long will it take to get and have installed .... Thanks for the input.

So I have been using this hoist that claims to be 15K, but I am not so sure, It is just worn out. Is 8.5 years old lifting heavy trucks all day. I finally talked to our parts and service manager over 3 dealerships after explaining that lift was not safe to my manager for over a year. It was quick and easy. He said the owner said to buy a lift. So, I have some questions about size and brand. We have a very large amount of 1 tons with welders, steel plates in the bed, etc. I would say 12K easy. Then we have a few 450 and 550's we service that are heavier. So what brand, and should I go 15K or 18K. We got a price on a challenger 15K and it was 10,000 plus 600 install. Thanks in advance.

I stock a set I kept out of a GM booster if you can't find it I will send both to you.

I have seen a handfull, and have had no repeat failure. Just put an engine in 1 I replaced the tube on 20k ago. I think they are flexed during service, and finally fatigue enough to break. Those things make a huge mess under the truck.

I am using hp tuners for my 5.3 in a 54 chevy truck project. They only list up to '10 for fords so probably not the best. Works awesome for ls based engines and my 8.1.

08 f-450, camshaft, all rockers, and #3 cylinder wall scored from bent rod. 07 GMC Duramax water pump and brakes. Chevy Aveo 16 bent valves from timing belt failure. 2001 Duramax Left head gasket leaking coolant externally and injectors. 08 6.4 leaking coolant, front crank seal, rear pinion seal and maintenance. 2008 yukon, ball joints, other front end work and some wiring. 2007 Suburban with a lock cylinder case binding. 2004 Medium Duty Chevrolet with an ABS problem.

All of the GM's I remember were wired in parallel, not series, so as long as the relay, or oil pressure switch was closed the fuel pump would run. It does not shut the pump off with just low or no oil pressure.

It seems like every 6.4 that rolls in has coolant crust on the gasket between the coolers and on the erg temp sensor b. These fleets want to be proactive, but do you guys replace coolers for just having coolant crust on the gasket and temp sensor. I for sure don't want to be called out for replacing parts that dont need replaced, but again, I don't want a bent rod from a cooler failure after I inspect the vehicle and give it an ok. Just want to know what you guys consider failed for the horizontal cooler. Thanks a lot. Alan

I use a lincoln powermig 135 I bought at home depot. I have used it for welding 1/4 plate with flux core, and sheet metal with Argon/CO2. For a 110V welder it has been awesome. It works great for broken studs as well. My buddy has a Lincon made Matco that is very similar and loves his as well. Another tech in our shop bought a harbor freight model and it has never worked. I say budget $450 and get a Miller, Lincoln, or other big name welder.

It is possible. I cheked the calibration and it was the latest. I put the latest flash in 20K miles, and 4 months ago with a rad leak repair. This fleet uses black boxes and has them tied into the DLC. They have 275 trucks in our town, and they have a "do not abuse your truck or find a new job" policy. Still could have happened though. I noticed no difference in power before and after. I guess we will see if anything odd happens again. Have another 08 of theirs that needs an egr cooler, another 06 needs an inector, and another 06 with 230 k miles smoking blue smoke badly and huffing out the crankcase. Need to keep them happy, they fix almost everything.