amailloux

Well here is how it went down. Right after posting, I went back with ids and selected module programming. I verified the vin, and it instructed me to install a new module. What?? So I selected ok, and it programmed my ecm. Now my maf is correct at about 30 g/s at idle, and up to 300 ish under load, depending on egr and load. DPF showed clean and I drove 12 miles to my turnaround and ran full load up a hill to 75 and dpf hit 4.8 psi max, great. the dpf pid showed part loaded for about .5 miles and then went back to clean and remained clean on my 25 mile drive and under full load was just under 5 psi. It appears everything is ok. For some reason the ecm MAF calculation was waaaay off and I believe injector timing, dpf calculations and egr operation were way off as well. I'm gonna ship it and keep my fingers crossed. By the way, it is a halliburton truck and has never had any power up software, although they run a connector to the dlc to monitor speed and acceleration for their black box.

I have a 2008 that came in and the driver stated check engine lamp on, and a strong smell of antifreeze. I found these 2 codes in history, no mil and a regen completed 40 miles ago and the dpf state is clean. I test drove and found all of the data seems normal but the MAF appears very high. at 85 g/s at idle and maxes out to 655 g/s under even light load. There is no smoke, and as for the coolant smell, it is full, and pressure tested good. Had rad and hoses 20k ago so I am not sure there really was a coolant smell. I checked intake and exhaust for any leaks, and the ecm has the latest program. i went through the ssm and when I drive, the code does not reset, mgp vgt and ebp all appear correct, and dpf pressure appears correct. I don't have another one at the moment to compare to but I did put the maf off another truck that is disassembled in with the same results. Can anybody tell me what the ballpark maf #s should be? I have found a lot of MAF replacements for these 2 codes. Don't want to DPF it and see it back.

Fuel pressure is 48 psi under full load. 55 at idle. mgp is 21-22 psi, vgt is about 68%. ebp is about 48 psi, maf over 300 grams wot 3-4 shift. It looks like this van is putting out all the power it is going to. It's loaded set up to measure during frac operations with pcs, and 5 large pipes in the back. Has the quigly 4x4 package too. If anything looks out of line let me know.

I don't have the official version. I removed the plug and went to put a 90 degree fitting on my gauge and the sob snapped. Gonna need a new fitting.

I have a 2008 6.0 e350 right now with the complaint of low power. Seems a little low on power cruising, but I don't have another to compare it to. no codes. MGP and VGT desired look good. EBP looks good. I was going to drive and monitor fuel pressure, but the fitting is buried behind the harness. Is there any other way to check fuel pressure or is it really that much of a pita to do. I have the intake duct out, and the engine harness won't budge out of the way. Vans are few and far between here.

The last oil cooler I did, I did not unbolt the intake at all. I removed the top cover, and lifted it up tight against the intake and as far forward as it would go, and then tip the rear up and out. Then on assembly I nicked the low pressure turbo drain seal and it had a small leak arrrgg.

F-150 rear diff clutch pack, brakes and some other goodies. just finished an e-350 with broken exhaust studs on both sides, f-450 for a complete 6.4 engine, f-150 exhaust noise, brake lamp on and rattle, and a Camaro with a rattle from the rear over bumps. Also have a project 94 chevy wrecker with a 6.5 that has sat for a year and won't start. I almost forgot, a 6.0 gas chevy engine locked up, ordered engine today. Looks like I'm gonna be busy for a while.

Installing my first front cover. I have no dowels for the front cover to block. The procedure states to use home made alignment studs during assembly. Does the cover center off of the oil pump when installed. I centered mine off the oil pump and hand torqued all bolts. Is this correct?

I just finished repairs on an f450 and it did a regen on my drive. I drove about 10 miles out and it finished, turned around and stomped it 0-75 5 timesand ect-eot delta was a max of 9 degrees. Truck has 69,000 miles. came in overheated, freeze frame showed 275 degree ect and 266 degree eot. Lower hose leaking severely. Engine appears to be ok.

My cover looks like the one in Brads post. New cover for me. For egr cooler, hoses, stats, front cover and oil cooler, it's a pretty big bill.

I'll be pulling mine apart tomorrow. Got the ok from the customer.

I've got a 2008 f550. Had severe coolant leak from the lower hose and was driven untill it got hot. Had coolant crust on the erg temp 2. I put stats, updated rad hoses, horizontal cooler and degas bottle and cap. All of the leaks are fixed, and the ect runs around 212 under load. Now I have p012F and eot runs around 240 consistantly. Looks like it needs an oil cooler. My big question is do I need to pull the water pump and check out the front Cover? Do the coolers plug from pieces of the cover from cavitation. Truck has 100K miles.

I have a 2008 F-350 that had low power going up an on ramp according to driver. Truck is a fleet vehicle tha is well maintained. Found these 3 codes. Test drove for 20 miles, and am unable to duplicate. All pressure pids match koeo. koeo and koer produce no codes. I performed the ka test and the turbo passes, egr passes. Freeze frame showed low boost. Test drove and vgt dc runs about 65 to 70% at 30 psi mgp. Able to build boost normally. Any ideas on how to possibly duplicate, and could a fuel system issue have these symptoms without p0087 or p0088. Any help is appreciated.

08 retail turbo drain tube leak, egr cooler, front crank seal, tie rod end and drag link ends, front and rear brakes, full service, oh and a broken dipstick. Then retail t-stats, radiator and egr cooler hose on another 08

Yep, they all have some cavitation damage. You can get a new oem already bolted to the housing, or an ac delco that does not contain a housing. also the outlet to the oil cooler uses a steel gasket, the ac delco comes with a fiber gasket. It always goes in the trash.

2001 Econoline 7.3 uvc connector loose on right and glow plug on left. Gonna be on my side a while.

I always have a hard time getting the two lower radiator hoses pushed back together. i have tried different lubricants and twisting and wiggling, but my forearms always start to burn before I get the darn hoses snapped together. Is there any secrets to getting these things together easily?