amailloux

Call your dealer and see what their price is on one of these. EL-50448. It will activate all GM sensors except the ones that only require a magnet. Pretty sure you wont see any of those. Really cheap and durable. Hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you are not provided with a fob, there may not be a dash selection to learn tire positions and a more expensive tool, or a scan tool with that capability will be needed. Might find out where they keep the fobs. Sounds like all of your fleet would go into learn mode with both lock and unlock held until the chirp, and this tool will learn them fast.

Our problem is owners taking the aftertreatment off, and then wanting full trade in value on trade. After getting burned a couple times on dodges, which are very expensive, they started looking a little closer. There is a guy from Colorado that comes up and pays good money for the removed systems.

I have a 6.0 gm that the reluctor on the crank moved. Gonna stuff a crankshaft in from the bottom in the morning. Should be interesting doing it in frame.

Me 5 on a v10 excursion.

So I have 1 here now. 55k miles. sets 2263. ebp koeo good. wiggle the hell out of the connector with no change. test drive and desired and actual ebp are right on. customers complaint is smoke. now I know I have a cracked dpf due to the smoke. He runs a fucking Edge programmed and an aftermarket air filter as well. Maf reads 42 or so at idle which seems high. cleaned sensor with no change. The smoke may be normal for a cracked dpf, but still cant get 2263 to pass. #3 stft is -7 to -8. oil level is not overfull. The 1 thing I Notice is the egr closed voltage is 1.17 to 1.18. I believe it should be closer to 1 volt. We know how easily the valves come out to inspect for sticking slightly open so I haven't physically checked it. I can see it start to build boost on the koer test, but failes with 2263. No CAC leaks, no excessive crankcase pressure. last regen complete was 525 miles ago and pid is clean. I want a factory airbox and a dpf, but I sure don't want to start plugging the new filter.

Damn, only 12 mpg. I drove 70 to 75mph to Idaho and averaged 13.7 in my v10. Brought home a 7500 lb camper, over Teton pass which is a 10 percent grade for 20 miles. Over 1 other big pass, and on the return trip I averaged 10.3 mpg. Back on track, I see anywhere from 15 to 19 mpg on the 6.7 4x4 f350 and f250 Trucks. I have a friend who drives 4 hours from Denver every other week and he is right at 18 mpg.

Picked up 4 285/60/r20 tires for my 09 f350. 2 have 14/32nds and 2 have 9/32nds firestone transforce a/t load range e. 200 bucks. Considering I drive less than 10k miles a year they should last quite a while. Now I have to put a left front axle seal in my daily driver, a 2002 trailblazer

All of the gm sensors I have seen are hex. I will say that if the hub is aftermarket, sometimes a oem sensor will not have the correct air gap and will cause false activation. I have seen some with shims also. If in doubt, I sell a hub. We had a lazy guy that would unbolt the sensor from the hub, throw the new sensor away and bolt the old sensor into the new hub so he didnt have to get to the electrical connector. That seemed to cause a lot of problems in the 2 months he worked here.

I just finished re-installing an engine in a 2012 that the company towed in as a no start after they "installed" a new engine, fuel system, and turbo. I have never in my life seen a truck so fucked up. I billed a total of 30 hours on it repairing everything I could find wrong front to back. Truck has just over 385,000 miles on her.

Budget van in my bay with a new engine ready to go in. 2009 dmax fuel system ok'd. 2014 fuel system full of metal. Only 9000 miles on it. Ambulance outside with a destroyed front suspension and steering. T case apart on a 2011 waiting for parts. Finished up a dmax engine and fuel system replacement on a 2011 today. Have 4 I haven't looked at yet. I am still worried about the low oil prices. There have been a bunch of layoffs here, but the broken trucks keep rolling in.

The sticker that comes with a valve body for the torque shift 6 is the same way. I used my thumb to stick it on and all of the ink wiped right off. that's handy.

Went in today and put a rear main seal and housing gasket in a 2006 Buick Lucerne, along with a steering gear, power steering hoses, oil pan reseal, and trans lines. Replaced intake gaskets also. Just need to set toe in the morning. Going to be gone Tuesday morning (job interview) and Wednesday for training and my advisor said she has 5 trucks coming in tomorrow.

I slapped a heater core in my dads 99 crown Vic and flushed all the crap out of the system. He bought this car with 5000 miles on it in 2008 for $5000. I put some exhaust hangers on it and this is the first issue at 68,000 miles. Now I need to change the trans fluid, and rear diff fluid, and there is a popping noise.

I actually bought the Matco version because he was there that day. They fit just right.

You reuse the old rear O-rings, or do you have a way of getting way in there. I usually have to clean out the o-ring grooves in the housing with a scotch brite because they get crumbs in them upon removal. Also takes me a pretty good hammer to knock the core out.

http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/gallery/image/1845-ya1140-c/ I really like these. Makes torquing much easier. They bottom out on the nut to prevent any injector return nipple damage. They work on the dmax also. Just finished another dmax fuel system Thursday. I think they are worth the price.

I got a motorcraft filter kit and had the same thing. This filter kit I got also had a plastic bag and a feedback form with an address to send the filters to in it. I could not get it to fit period. I grabbed another off the shelf and it fit just fine. I am wondering if a part change happened and my filter was old stock or what. I have yet to get another one with the feedback form, or another one that would not fit. It looked like a genuine filter to my untrained eye.

-7 Fahrenheit this morning. Just made it above zero. had just under a foot of snow the last 2 days. It's a real skating rink here.

I have been advised by gm to replace the rail when the pcv has failed. The pcv is extremely torque sensitive and they don't believe we can torque them reliably in the field. I have a thin crowsfoot for this. They pay for a rail no questions asked if the pcv needs replaced now. FWIW GM covers the pcv under emissions which is usually 50K depending on gvwr, and the rail is covered by the diesel warranty for 100K or 5 years. And the rail pays 11.2 under warranty so I don't mind at all.

A set of injectors is far better than a blown off tip taking out the engine AND a set of injectors. Usually if they refuse and want to do just 1, we politely decline the repair. It makes your shop look bad and takes up valuable shop space when something bad happens, no matter what the customer agrees to.

If the centering ball is rusty, which they almost always are, it is a loss. Replacing the joints is doable. be sure the centering ball seal is not hard or cracked, and the spring is good. Just be very gentle as you have to hold tension on the spring as you install the caps for the inboard joint.

I have a complete fuel system on a gm 2012 ok'd. The same fleet just brought another truck, 2011 that has a fuel pressure regulator 2 plugged from metal flakes. Pulled regulators and it needs a complete fuel system as well. This particular truck had a fuel system about 100 k ago. Both retail jobs. Have a 450 on my big lift for ball joints, dot and service. The rear egt sensor was just hanging out. Someone had unthreaded it. Causing egt 3 performance code, but no stop safely now message. Has not has 14e03 done yet.

My vcm 1 is working well after 94 was installed

Isn't cj-4 a requirement, yet this is a ci-4 base stock oil additive. Although it is a very small percentage of volume. It states comparable with ci-4 and ci-4 plus. They have higher tbn and zddp, but break down fast under the higher temps of 2007.5 up emissions.

Here is what I have in the morning. Allison with a cracked bell housing pretty much all the way around and broken engine flywheel housing. Pan has a huge dent and the driveline has all new u joints and center support bearing. I replaced the flywheel housing, bell housing, and pan on this same truck 30,000 miles ago from impact.