amailloux

I would pop the left cover and take a fuel sample from the rail and check it closely for debris. Swap 2 and 4 like Matt said and recheck trim. Sounds like it may be short block time, and maybe a fuel system. The last couple trucks in with trims creeping up, I found glitter in the rails. One had 8200 hours and I did the relative compression hot, cold, and anywhere in between and it was always zeros. checked manual compression and had 350 at 5200 feet. Anytime I see 2 or 8 down on relative compression, with excessive crankcase pressure It needs the head to come off.

My rear wiper is not cleaning the glass like it used to.

Bought this kit a while ago off the Matco Truck.

The core charge also keeps the aftermarket from having tons of really cheap parts to refurbish and drive prices down.

I thought there was a no fault core policy. We have not been charged for engines with holes in the side and cracked transmission cases. I thought the pump in the service kit was brand new. The rails and injectors were reman but could be wrong.

You really need to be able to monitor desired, actual, and Frp percent.

Could be either depending only on calibration. Hardware is all the same. I call 06 lbz engines.

I got a new Samsung Galaxy S5 for Christmas to replace my sweet flip phone. The camera is awesome hence the pictures lately. Here is my present to myself. 2009 pretty well loaded. You can see 2 exploders in my bays in the background. 1 has a t-case front output seal leak that requires disassembly of the transfer case to replace. Thanks ford. The other has both of the plastic radiator supports broken and the radiator is just kind of hanging there. I am slowly installing an egr cooler bypass valve in my other bay. Have a lot of work if anyone wants to come to Wyoming for a while I could use some help.

Pulled these Control arms from a 4500 GM Van ambulance. Same bushing the 1/2 ton trucks used. 4600 lbs on the front axle with nobody in it. I put upgraded gm springs, Bilstein shocks, a heavy timbren kit, and new upper and lower arms. They just don't know why the tires are always worn on the inside.

Here is that 18k maxxed out.

Well my Dmax truck with the fuel system concern had 20" hg on the supply side. I removed the line at the tank and ran the truck and it dropped to 6". Dropped the tank and found a colony of bugs in the pickup, and the fuel smells more like alcohol than diesel. I flushed all of the lines and ran and still had 6". I found the filter head was restricting. I removed the pump and found this.

Anyone have a triton apart, have a front cover around, or know the thickness behind the tensioner. She drove in with the belt still on, and if I had to guess, about .030" deep in the front cover. Trying to decide whether to replace it, or slap a tensioner on and ship it.

I tried every which way I could. Maybe next time. they have 3 of these all 08, and are used similarly. Oh they all have a nice big Dana 60 planted in the way up front and a big plate bolted to the crossmember that covers up the mount access holes from a quigly conversion. I had to get all of the mount bolts reaching in from the front.

6.7 with a secondary filter sucked in, and dirt in the tank, and a leaking primary Rad. Budget truck with a trans that will not move. Actually it hits stall speed in all selector positions even park so the input shaft is not able to turn at all. Might be interesting when I get it torn down. f-150 ps fluid looks like sludge and has metal. a Dmax with water in fuel lamp, cuts out and loses power under acceleration $$$$$.

I Finally finished her up yesterday morning. I had to retape damn near the entire harness on the engine. also found both of the nuts inside the air intake duct to the turbo split out, the oil feed tube was bent badly, the radiator had a total of 1 bolt in the top on the side. etc.etc.etc. the turbo actuator connector had no insulation and no tangs so I put a used wire clip type on. Had about 15 nuts and bolts missing total. She is back headed to the oil field to idle for a couple weeks and then come home. I had new cramping sensations in my hand and forearm getting the center lower bolts out of the left valve cover. That is a real pia. Also I tried and the rh cover does not come out with just the intake off on this van. I had to remove the left mount, and in the process 1 bolt snapped off. oh and my left ass cheek was quite tired from laying inside. With all of that, the labor was about right. If she was a virgin, I would knock about 5 hours off. Advisor said I was 4 pennies off of the estimate on the low side.

3/4 inch 12point socket pushes the injector connectors out. I drilled and tapped a hpop top plug to 1/4 pipe to make a pressure test adapter. I slightly ground 2 door panel trim tools to release the oil line quick connects. I would buy the ipr socket, and that's it. Most importantly you need to have a good fuel pressure gauge and fitting (you can make a fitting also with an old plug). A test ficm is nice also.

I went in and dropped the cab on a turbo job, then got crazy and power washed my lifts. Huge pita with no floor drain. Checked my hours for the year, did a lof on my rig and fixedo a leak in my rf tire.

Quoted 29 for engine work. Additional for DOT inspection and maintenance, ps pump, and rcm and possibly pretensioner. Customer bought it all. Advisor said about $8400 parts and labor.

The dumb shits around here leave the egr and egr cooler bypass connectors disconnected and hanging down. They end up melting on the exhaust, shorting, or filling with water pulling a 5 volt ref down and sometimes leading to a tow on dmax engines. I had 1 jackass yell at me and my manager when I told him this was not warranty. I promply pulled the calibrations from the ecm and submitted a warranty block on the truck. He requested that I not work on his truck again.

Could be. 1st, grab the scan tool and then you have to listen to the engine. Monitor desired and actual as well as Frp percent. Use the scan tool to command fuel pressure to 160 mpa and see if the relief valve opens. If it does, the pressure will drop drastically, and the engine should quiet down. This can prove a skewed sensor. You have to determine if the pressure is actually high or not first. Resistance in the circuit will skew the readings high if I remember correctly. The 1 regulator on the back of the high pressure pump controls pressure. On an 06, they had very few failures, especially for p0088. I have seen them stick, and have actually used the gm cleaning procedure with success where you run 16 ounces of top engine cleaner and 1 gallon of fuel and run off of this mixture. Takes nearly 2 hours. If the regulator sticks you will have p0088 at idle and p0087 under load. This can be intermittent. Also load test all 3 circuits from the ECM to the sensor. Tons and tons of wiring problems.

I like that 10% rule. I mentioned 24 hours out the door roughly to the customer including dot inspection, ps pump, rcm, and pretensioner, fuel filters, lof and rotate.

I am trying to come up with a labor time for oil cooler, egr cooler, injectors, fuel pressure regulator kit, and installing a bunch of missing or incorrect bolts.

I drove It hard, and had no venting. Also the degas bottle is soft, and will not hold pressure when pressure testing. It is kind of strange how it has failed. With not being able to hold pressure, and not venting I think I am safe. Also I pulled the egr valve out and it is not closing. At 1.09 volts and also failed the maf test right at the lower limit. Being on a 235 hp factory tune I hope it is safe. Should I clean the egr to get it fully closed, install the degas bottle and then pressure check the cooling driving hard. van has only 46000 miles, but had an hour meter installed around 30,000 miles. Hour meter shows 5100 hours. Truck sits and idles for days on end. Should put it at 15000 hours on the long block. They want to keep it as it has all sorts of computers and measuring devices in the back for oilfield use. These things are real turds with the lift kit on em. Like driving an underpowered refrigerator down the highway.

Had an 08 e350 roll in with cold start misfires, contribution codes, egr stuck and sticky with coolant, degas bottle leaking, heater quick connects leaking, and a bunch of bolts missing, crap not routed right and a reman turbo sitting on her. Power steering pump leaking, airbag lamp on, fuel level sensor codes, and haven't even lifted it yet to check the front end. By the way it's a quigly 4 wheel drive conversion. Most likely they will fix everything.

What is fuel pressure koeo? Look at the main harness where it crosses the top of the engine. It gets mashed when braking and damages the harness badly. How does it sound, if the fuel pressure is actually high, you should have a little clatter and light smoke on a dmax. The regulator on the high pressure pump was replaced, and the short jumper harness? Frp should be around 38 percent or so at idle. Have seen some terminal issues at the big bale connectors cause skewed readings also.