amailloux

2013 f-350 came in. lost all keys. brought in 2 new key for me. I Hook up and find the perimeter alarm is active. I went through and let the perimeter time out 10 times. now the perimeter is not going off when I attempt to start, or open the door. So I go to pats functions and am still unable to gain access. I let the truck sit, and rebooted the pc. still unable to gain access. Any ideas on what I am missing. Truck does not have the keypay to disable the theft either. I have the customer standing here, and don't know whether to do a pmi on the bcm or what. All help is greatly appreciated.

I had my 1st peek at a vmac on a 6.7. It was a 2013 f450. 2105 miles, 863 hours, 817 idle hours. Battery relocated under drivers door on the frame. Coolant hoses hacked into all over. Does not look easy to work on. I just did a dot inspection and service. Next bay over is a 2010 Acadia that windowed the block. I put the engine in and vacuumed the coolant system and it had a large leak. I found a piece of the block wedged in the radiator core. That must have made some cool noises.

I would remove the doghouse and the rh up pipe and pull the cooler and valve out the back. I have a 12 duramax g van ambulance outside with a fuel leak in the valley. They are a real bitch to work on.

4 egt's? I have replaced 2 at once, but never 4. Is this common, or a cya thing? I saw the new sensors are different, are they " that" much better?

Here is how it is set up. After you mentioned the tank being shortened I checked and Holy crap, they welded an end on the fuel tank.

I dropped the valve body and the gasket, screen assembly between the 2 halves was pooched out and the mesh screen material ripped. Right at the front center. I believe the mesh has gotten into the solenoids, and was for sure a leak for line pressure. In the morning I am going to put my straight edge on the body halves and then most likely put a valve body with all solenoids on her. I don't think any of the material from the screen could have made it up into the clutch passages, but I'll flush em out. The pan was incredibly clean. I will try to get some pics. They remove the extension housing from the oe 2 wheel drive, install a new oem output shaft and 4 wheel drive extension housing, a ford transfer case, and complete ford front axle. Most parts are directly from the super duty. They have a quigly built set of arms bolted in to locate the front axle. The thing is a tank.

This poor van has 48K and guessing over 10000 hours. It will not engage until the rpm comes up to 1000 rpm or so, then she bangs in. Fluid level is ok, no smell of clutch material. I took it for a drive and it has 0 tcc engagement. has overhead codes, tcc stuck off, tcc performance and 3 friction element slip codes. So I check and in park and neutral line pressure is 30 psi. When I rev it up, at 75 psi it engages harshly and then the rpm drops. it will then disengage over and over. On my drive, all gears were there and the shifts felt good. When the TCC is commanded there is 0 rpm drop, and then the 2 tcc codes set. Is there any connection between this. I have not dropped the pan. Being a quigly it has been converted to 4 wheel drive as well, but the engineering number on the trans matches the catalog and I thing they remove the output shaft and housing and just transfer them over and leave the transmission in. Does this sound correct. I found there is an updated pump to prevent low/rev failures in cold weather, and I have no external filter. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I believe there is a metal restrictor about 2.5 inches from the waste gate. Where the green stripe Hose connects to the beefed up hose.

I took a cheetah bed seating tool to one very recently (Be sure to do this outside). I also power washed one out, and was able to get a regen to complete on both. 1 was a 6.4, and the other was a dmax.

Unplugged ebp, no change. I then pulled out the idm. tested voltage with my lab scope and had no dropout when the condition occurred. then I threw my amp clamp on the ground wire and had all 8 injectors. I had a large section of 6 or so missed injections when the buck occurs. I then backprobed the cid circuit and it had no dropouts when the buck happens, and then I backprobed the fuel command and there were no lost events, just 1 higher demand event I am guessing is right after the buck to get the engine back up. The only odd thing I noticed was the tach does drop sharply when it happens. I believe the tach comes from the pcm as indicated by the cam sensor. Could just be the lack of processing speed from my eyes to my brain also.

I have a 99 7.3. ran koeo and koer, no codes. Cylinder contribution test pass. had a p0603 stored and exhaust backpressure valve unplugged. Cleared p0603 and it has not returned. when cold or hot, I can hold it at 1700 rpm and it has a buck. Feels like key is shut off and then back on real quick. Scan data rpm is the only pid that moves, but I can't tell if it is in response to the issue, or creating the issue. gray cam senso in it. I scoped the cam sensor when the buck happened and it looked ok, but it is so fast it was hard to tell. When I mat it, it will buck all the way up to the shift point. Never had a buck under 1500 rpm. chacked codes again and ran buzz test ok. I am leaning towards an idm, but don't have another one to test with. Any other things I should check. has good power other than the buck. Does this sound like a failing idm. I have only worked on a dozen or so 7.3s and am looking for any information I can get. Thanks.

Not much for ford work, but the advisors feel they need to give me all the gm trans work. I have 1 extended warranty Acadia trans overhaul apart on the bench, another Acadia trans waiting to be torn down for an extended warranty company. A Buick enclave waiting for customer approval, no reverse, and 1 more Acadia with a leaking oil pan, so that engine is coming out for leak repairs. It is getting a steering gear and struts as well. Then a 2011 dmax for a complete fuel system and head gasket leaking coolant externally waiting for authorization. Some gravy axle seals and trans lines. A 2012 dmax for a turbo and fuel pressure control valve, and a friend of the owner dropped off his 2013 dmax with def issues. I have an 18k lift, and a 9 k, and I really need a 3rd bay to pull transmissions and teardown if they decide I am going to be doing all of those. It gets to be a real bottle neck.

Feed tube leaks bleed high pressure into the return system through the head passage. You can pull the cover and do a careful visual with dye to find a cracked body, or if it has high hours checking return flow may warrant all 6. The only special tool I think you will need is the fuel test fitting that directs pump return flow and injector return flow to separate containers.

Went In on That saturday and knocked it out pretty quick. Not bad at all, other than all the aftermarket black box gps stuff wired in everywhere.

Well, I put the latest software in, cleared TCM KAM, and adaptive tables, and got her hot. Performed the adaptive drive and now 2nd is extremely harsh and 6th is harsh as well. So I replaced the 2-6 solenoid and went through the KAM reset, adaptive reset, and adaptive drive and she shifts like butter. It looks like I will be replacing a few more, as they come in for service.

I have a few trucks in a fleet with a harsh 1-2 shift, and harsh 3-2 downshift. All others are ok including 6th gear. There are a couple 450s including 1 in my bay that really bang. I replaced a main control body and repaired 1. I have done the adaptive drive a few times, and they seem to come back with a harsh 1-2 and 3-2 only. I see solenoids are available as long as they are matched, but having a good 5-6 leads me to think the solenoid must be ok. I have not removed the valve body. Anyone else seeing a harsh 1-2 only.

I installed the harness and the noise is gone completely. If the solenoid is a permanent repair, it would be far easier to install, and is only about 30 bucks more.

Does the vacuum harness fix these things, or should it get an actuator.

Good thought. I've seen that line be pretty mangled after the intake has been off. Replaced 1 for almost rubbing through last cooler job.

I had there opus version for 6 years and I used it daily. I hand torque all drain plugs out of habit, and to get the lube guys to understand the importance. "we have bought more than 1 engine from plug coming out". I then upgraded and had to send it in as it would just shut off. I use mine for small block ls head bolts all the time, and the angle built in is sweet. They end up in the mid 80 foot lb range. I think the previous model may be a little more robust, but still worth the price. I bought a Cornwall 1/4 electronic and it has been a pile. I don't trust it at all and am going to trade next time the snappy is on sale.

I have 5 Chevy diesel ambulance 4500 vans I work on and they are a huge pain in the ass to repair. Also the independent front suspension wears tires like no other. I had to put new front springs in, and lower control arm bushings on 2 so far around 70 k. All 5 sit so low due to the load, camber can't be adjusted far enough positive to keep the tires from getting chopped up. They use def like no other truck I have seen. I'm talking 5 gallons in 1200 miles, and I checked the average mph at 13. The drivers like them, and fight over who has to drive the f350 6.4, and the new dodge 4500 truck. Also brakes on the rear every 30 k. 1 had a transmission failure. 1 or 2 had a "9th" injector failure, and 2 new ones went into limp mode 5 times when being delivered in a snowstorm due to snow in the air box. Not to mention the hacked in cooling system leaks, and aftermarket door locks the fail to operate.

The time sent is awesome. It is a solid piece and I have used them for north star head bolts a few times with confidence.

Any tips? I have 1 to do. I see the cable is what makes you have to remove the heater box. Any good tips to get the dash and box out? Also has a bunch of aftermarket wiring arrggggg.

Sweet, fellow "I will not touch a drill" member.

So our sales department sells a truck off the back line, AKA hasn't been through the shop. It is an 06 6.0. Has all the "goodies" like a K and N hot air intake, and the exhaust is hacked up, and actually welded solid to the frame. So a tech on the other side of the shop gets it for a used car inspection and lof. He notices it is a very hard start, and would like to diagnose it. This all started exactly 4 MONTHS ago to the day. So he calls me over a few times, and I printed off the hard start worksheet, and a FICM TSB and try to kind of brush it off. I look under the hood, and there is a heater hose in where the blue cooler hose should be and a large coolant leak at the hose adapter on the oil cooler cover. Next thing I know, there is an estimate for 5000 dollars for exhaust repairs, and an oil cooler, EGR cooler, 8 injectors, and some harness repair. exhaust is declined by the customer, but the rest is ok'd. The guy didn't fix the coolant leak, or even drive the truck. So I kind of watch, and answer some questions, and then look at the estimate. He borrows my IPR socket, and removed the intake and oil cooler. It has a Brand new oil cooler with a green gasket, and a brand new egr cooler that looks oem. So I asked what his eot-ect delta was and he says I didn't check it. I asked what his fuel pressure was and he ho hawed around and It was obvious he didn't check it. So anyway he does install a new oil cooler, a new egr cooler, and 8 new injectors. I checked the labor and he had 1.5 hours for the used car inspection and lof. Then he had 4 additional hours for diagnosis. Then he had 13.8 hours for the oil cooler and EGR cooler. Then he had 5.2 hours for the injectors. He then proceeded to replace the track bar ball joint for 1.5. He drove it up on the alignment rack, it was all green, and he had 2.8 to set alignment. He went and drove it and it had a driveline vibration so lets add 2.1 for a new rear u-joint. Oh and he put some batteries in it also for .8. He had 31.7 hours. I let my manager know that the intake and egr cooler must come off to replace the oil cooler and that there was no real diagnosing, and that I felt the customer was screwed out of about 15 hours of labor, and last I knew, the tech kept the time, the customer is set to pay it all, and I am made to look like the asshole. The only real consolation was on his test drive, he had to be towed in because...... you guessed it, the ipr screen blew out and the ipr stuck open from debris.