amailloux

So our owner is moving us across town and my biggest fleet customer came in and asked what shop he should go to after we move. They spent over $400000 with us last year. Now we will be right next to our other store and have no presence on the east side of the city. I may be looking for a new company, I guess we will see.

We need our current SM to step up. We had 3 ass clown hourly guys dicking on their phones for over an hour Thursday. Then we had a flat rate guy flag 10 hours of work that I watched the hourly guy do. This is not the first time this guy has flagged hourly guys time. The SM states he will look into it, and he sees it as mentoring. Man I should sit on my ass and "mentor". We have a serious slacker issue. More work than we have ever had, and guys don't give a shit. OK, rant over.

I see a ton of 6.0 gas chevy engines with bolts broke off below the surface of the aluminum head. I'll snap some photos next time.

I haven't drilled a bolt in years also. Did this 6.4, and a 5.4 last week with 4 broken. Once I get the wire speed set and my 110 mig on high, the stud will break again before the weld fails.

They were broke off just below flush. 1 twisted of when removing, and the other was gone. I took a very small die grinder and cleaned them up until they were shiny. I pulled out the welder and built them up above the head and welded a nut on them. I got them to turn and the stud promptly broke again: a few nuts later and slight sunburn and I finally got them out. Have been using the mig for a long time now. I'll clean and weld for an hour before I pull out the drill. I hate drilling bolts.

She's done, pulled the fan and alt bracket. Pulled her out the front. Then spent 1 hour getting the 2 broken studs out. I left the a/c compressor in and just removed the lines. One of the crappier jobs I have come across on the 6.4. 5.9 hours plus time to remove broken bolts. left hand pays 8 and I think is easier. Oh well.

I have my first RH manifold gasket leak. I have done up pipes with a partial cab lift, but haven't had the pleasure of a manifold yet. How do you guys go about doing these things. Labor time is a little weak to be messing around. Anyone care to share? It is a 2wd f-550.

08 6.4 with a plugged dpf. dist regen completed, 698. Dist regen requested 452. talk to driver and it has idled for 2 weeks on location and then died and runs for 5 seconds. Towed in. Really, idles for 2 weeks without the truck moving. That will cost you 2,000 and get the damn thing out on the road for 45 minutes every once in a while.

That ups the quote a little now. I had a school bus (short Bus) on mine yesterday. I did have 1 issue. I had a motor stalling issue when loaded. They sent a pressure relief valve that allows the motor to spin up before fully closing fixing the issue.

I believe I have it mostly figured out. Basically the RQFT is not necessary and driving the vehicle under very specific conditions will net quicker and more accurate results. I had a field engineer on the line and he basically stated if the truck ever gets below -7f when driving the rqft will not run until another 6 hour off cycle.

We got slammed this week. Starting to schedule at the very end of feb. I have about 70 hours all ok'd sitting outside. I love having lots of work, but it is almost starting to be overwhelming.

Yes, the crazy thing is the trucks are fixed. Nowhere does it state it must be above -7 Fahrenheit during the drive before a fluid quality test. Tomorrow it should be warm enough to get the trucks back to the fleet. I have 3 of them here all 2013s. Untill I can get an indoor heated track to drive on for 25 minutes they can just wait.

I just spent 3 days trying to get the tamper message and def milage shutdown messages to clear on 3 2013 gm trucks. Today I finally got a hold of someone who basically stated the truck must be driven until certain tamper criteria are met. So I have to drive the truck 25 minutes with the ambient temp above -7 degrees Fahrenheit. So the last three days have been below that. 3 effin days and now I get the answer. So my standard customer reply will have to be "I am sorry sir, I repaired your truck, but you have to wait until it warms up so your truck can determine whether I fixed it" I will call you when spring arrives and you can get back to hauling oil field tools and make a living again. Freaking software engineers have no clue.

The back portion of the high pressure pump is a transfer pump. I've had them drive in with no lift pump operation at all, they just don't like it.

They also number their cylinders rear to front which is a little odd.

I had 1 yesterday at 17.7 volts and lost the cluster only. Was an 08 F350. Had a bunch of high voltage codes and loss of comm with the cluster. It was a base model so none of the fancy modules on the bus.

I do them all cab on. If there is no rack, or body attached to the cab then you can do a partial lift and put 4x4 blocks under the front mounts. If you do a search, there is a post on oil cooler replacement and 1 for partial cab lift.

Get it smoking hot, like right after a manual regen and do a cranking compression test, then a manual based on the results. Had 1 similar and it had regen issues due to low compression during a regen, and the added fuel causing the problem to manifest itself.

I have yet to see a gelled up truck and we had -24 f last week, and were -20 the previous week. I don't reccomendation any aftermarket additives, and the number 2 at the pumps seem to be just fine in our state. We actually have a much bigger problem with low Rvp gas causing no starts, and cold start misfires in the late model lean start cars and suv's. Our state sets the Rvp limits due to seasonal changes, but I am unsure if they set the limits for diesel.

Yet another 6.7 rad. 41k on this one. The cold weather sure brings these things out.

2005 explorer ball joints, inner tie rods. 2012 with a bad def tank heater, leaking rad, and a seat belt pretensioner. Another 6.7 with corroded maf terminals causing a lot of issues, and a 100 k service. 2009 suburban with an intermittent high speed gmlan issue that I have gone over twice and only found 1 small chaff and couldn't duplicate the issue. Worked half a day today and can start fresh Thursday.

I applied a small amount of heat, slid it off, lubed it and slid it on. there is no way it will come off again. I can't even rotate it. I feel comfortable with the repair. Thanks lmorris.

I have a split line about 3 inches from the secondary fuel filter tee. I have the new assembly sitting here, and it looks like I can remove the line on the new one and install it on the old line. Has anyone done this, I cut the old line off of the barb at the tee that goes to both sides of the engine and the injectors. I don't want to ruin the new assembly by taking it apart, but I also don't want to replace the entire assembly if it is a quality repair just replacing the damaged section.

Dude, you are describing the 2006 I just finished exactly. 152K 4 injectors, coolers, hot side duct, blue boot, blue spring, I updated the stc fitting, had a rad tank leaking and orange coolant. Oh and a seized caliper pin on the left front.

They have plenty of 350, 450, and 550. The fleet just took over a smaller company and this is 1 of their crew. I looked and found this truck does not have the factory overload leaf, and it can be added along with the stops on the frame. That's a mere 2 grand. They are going to scale ot again, and then take a few things out. I checked the alignment on the truck, and caster is dead on at 3.5 both sides, camber in 0 ans .1 degrees and it is under the gross and axle weights from what I was told. They just want the rear up higher as it has a slight positive frame angle. I drove it and don't feel it is unsafe. I have seen shifted and broken aftermarket helpers, and even split en rear shackles.