amailloux

6100 rear 9400 gross.

I have a 2010 f250 that is running right at 6,000 lbs on the rear axle. They would like overload springs on the rear to level. Any ones that you recommend for quality. No air bags, just springs. Also I have my parts guy checking to see if srw 1-ton springs may fit the bill. Has anyone tried it. I put 1-ton springs on a 3/4 ton GM and they bolt right up.

I agree with 100k for most trucks, but the triton plug snappers. The tritons I recommend 30 to 50 K. I have not broken 1 yet at 50K. Knock on wood. I have pulled out hundreds on GM's with iridium factory plugs with well over 100K and I can see both iridium tips are is tact and there are no misfire concerns related to the ignition system.

The gm ECM programming stinks when there is a fault. After repair and clearing of certain dtc's you have to do the reductant fluid quality test and the dts must pass, or test drive and make the code pass. This is a good repair verification as well. Good thing is they have used 2 nox sensors from the beginning, and a 70 percent reduction is pretty accurate for a min. As for the tsb, if ou use logical thinking and a test drive it is pretty easy to see the reduction in the scr brick. The scan data is very good. If the reduction Is sub par, you measure the injector flow, and if it is good, drain and fill with new fluid and test drive, and if it is still low, a new scr is needed. Running the test each time is more time consuming than just flogging on the road. Also a good flogging will clear the brick like the filter regen will do stationary. As for labor, .3 diag, sometimes a regen or fluid quality test can be claimed depending on the labor op. anything over that has to be signed by the sm and is up to 2.0 hours. After about 10 software updates, the system is pretty good.

If the block is roloced to hell, how do you fix that? The surface rma has to be pretty good for MLS gaskets. I have sanded with 500 grit and wd-40 to get some stuff off, but roloc marks can get pretty deep.

This truck has had enough radiators, and coolant leaks in the past to keep the system clean. I think I'll just drain from the block drains and flush through the degas bottle and not Vc-9. The coolant and bottle don't have any scale or rust. I really don't want to plug a new cooler.

Do you guys do the flush before, or after, or not at all. Do you remove stats and run for 1 hour on water like wsm, or other ways on the 6.4. Do you remove the right block drain also. I am torn between doing it before the cooler so I don't get loose material in the new cooler, or doing it after so I know I have good flow. Because the oil cooler does not feed the egr cooler, I am leaning towards popping the stats, drain and fill and run for 1 hour at high idle. Pull both block drains and flush out and then replace the oil cooler. Vc9 flushes are generally not sold with oil cooler replacements here on 6.4 trucks. Thanks

If I remember correctly, it had the 5.3 outer purple and inner very heavy yellow spring. 4.3 uses only the outer large diameter spring. Customer wanted a smooth 1-2 like the old trans had. I took out the inner spring, and the shift adapts came right into line. The software adapts positive at a much higher rate than negative.

I contacted them on a 4l60e reman since they now reman these and our dealer is pushing them. The 4 digit code did not match the box, and the accumulator springs were incorrect for a v6in a half ton. Way harsh 1-2 shift. Their reply was they build 1 unit for numerous models and the Tcm should be able to adapt the shifts. My feedback on the phone was not real good. I also put a complete 6.4 in, that had a rad shortly before, needed an oil cooler in 3000 miles. Surely they use new oil coolers??? The damn paint that makes me about pass out on the first hard accel is a little rediculous also. Makes it hard as hell to remove bolts for its next repair.

Hi guys, We have a guy by the name off Lee Stevenson from Aer coming to our dealer for training. We are inviting the fleet customers in town also. So if anyone has questions about the ford reman engines or power train components, I can try to get answers. Just post questions here, and I'll try to get answers.

Is looks like the new gt37 turbo will be a single compressor design also. I sure hope it has a rack position sensor.

This may have been covered before, but just the other day the superstar tech said to never upgrade the spring on old injectors as the 15 psi increase blows the O-rings out. I have been putting them in with no issues.

Why not use the egr throttle plate for braking?

Oil cooler, stats, front crank seal, brakes and service on an 08 ok'd today. Another 08 leaking rad hoses, rear main seal and 100 k service outside. F150 no 4 wheel drive outside, finished putting in a junkyard rear axle in an 09 f150. Hit a pothole and bent the right side up an inch or so. Had 2 brand new gm ambulances in reduced power mode being delivered to Wyoming from Denver. Snow intrusion into the air cleaner on both. I can hear it now, sorry sir, we can't send an ambulance due to the snow. If you are still alive when the snow is though, we will gladly take you to the hospital.

How are you guys checking maf sensors when there is a dpf frequent regen concern. I have followed the p0101 maf test 4 times on trucks with no issue, and I always fall just outside the limit, I believe just low. most maf concerns over estimate at lower volume and underestimate at higher volume. do you guys have any set numbers you go by? I have been comparing some trucks and there are so many variables I find it hard. They never seem to set a p0101 either.

Yep. Had 0 rpm drop. I could command the solenoid, and hear it click also. I dropped the pack and used a short piece of hose and my lungs to determine it can not allow pressure. After hearing the solenoid click I thought a new converter or stuck valve was going to be at fault.

I read that exactly earlier, up to 2005, it may be possible, it not 06 to 10.

They passed on a 450 dollar cluster. Did go for a new solenoid pack for the trans though. Thanks.

Is it replaceable? Catalog shows 7 bulbs, but not which ones. Anyone know before I pull it out.

After 2 times, I have the lube kids run them down the road hard before parking it for the customer. Have caught another 1 this way.

I talked to another driver requesting high idle on his 6.7. I guess I will find out how many idle hours they can take also. I love the idle hour reading on the 6.7. Had a 550 come in for it's first service with 5015 miles, 520 hours and 315 idle hours. Nao matter how hard I try, the drivers can't get them in every 200 hours. The fleet wants it done at 5000 miles or 200 hours.

I had a pile of 5 front shaft as 1 fleet instructed their drivers to keep the hubs locked in all the time. Only 1 destroyed the t-case. I unlocked the hubs every Time I saw 1 of these trucks. I could unlock them, but the drivers couldn't.

I usually go 25 and go over 3 times or more until they are seated fully.

Well, they are going to pull the truck out of srervice so I am not tearing it down. They just brought in another truck, almost identical. Vin is 2 numbers newer. It has 8600 hours, 4000 mile old particulate filter, and in reduced power. I put rocker arms on 8000 miles ago. Had 1 eject, and there were no tips on any of them. I asked the driver how the truck is used and got "it sits on location for 2 to 3 days and idles to run electrical stuff". It looks like 8500 hours is all they are going to get out of these engines. Averaged 13.x mph. I did a manual regen and the filter cleaned, but there was some bad noise from the lower end.

I ran until hot again, and found #8 %5 low relative, and under 300 psi manual, 6 was 350 psi. I guess I need to tear it down. The crankcase pressure tester is at our other store at the moment, but I highly suspect it will fail hot at 2500. Time to pull the head. I think bent rod and scuffed cylinder wall, or severe erosion as the truck has idled most of its life and most likely has had overfull crankcase more than 1 time.