HGM

I think its a great tool... You guys know how a computer works. So, your more likely to understand the EBP and MAF readings when you do a turbo test without the "new tool".. The problem comes with the sad fact that there are alot of "techs"(mechanics, dime a dozen style, maybe helpers working under someone elses #) who dont understnd what these readings are telling them..This tool will take all the guesswork out of the equation... /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

If you have the covers off already, what do the spill's look like? That can tell you allot....What goes in must come out..

If you disable the fuel pump(pull the relay), when the problem is occuring it will help to identify an injector. The truck will run with 0psi(wont perform, but will run). If it smooths out when the fuel pressure is taken away, its at least one bad injector. Basicly, if your familiar with how the injector works internally, the fuel pressure will cause "blow by" in a worn injector. The fuel will go past the intensifier piston bore and cause a "hydro lock" of sorts in the injector. When you take the pressure away, it will fire more normally. There should be plenty of fuel to idle, just from the suction created by the injector.

Havent done one myself, but it is "melting" the sludge in the injectors from lack of maintenance /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/whistle.gif... I wouldnt be too surprised, kinda like an injector flush on a gas burner years ago.. Now, if we can just get these guys to keep up with the service to avoid needing this flash /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banghead.gif...

Hopefully you'll see more before too long.. It's in the works. Some dealers are actually using it now as part of a pilot program. The tool works really well, especially at finding intermitant sticktion of the turbo that would be tough without it.. All you have to do is install the sensor in the "pipe plug hole" on top of the turbo and push the button. It does the rest for you and gives you the results. More similar to the EGR test than the CMP test..I was impressed, as were the other guys that saw it..

Just a thought guys.. Could it be that they are just smoother? With the sequential turbo system, it may not set you back in the seat like you expect.... It'll be hard to tell w/o a drag race /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cool.gif...

EGR and EGRTP always buzz with the key on, thats probably what you were hearing..

Off road, through the mudd too I'm sure...

Let me guess, he's towing 26,000lbs at 80mph, right? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banghead.gif

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Good idea going to the sales dept, hope everyone does... As for the ones that cannot be removed, it looks like the Econoline bracket will be used to remove the engine from the chassis(looks much easier than an Econoline though).. There will be a procedure for those as well.. I'm not sure how it will be policed, but I wouldnt want to claim the body on R&R if I was able to take the body off..JMO..

Huh?? Really..... They usually have them to hand out at each class.. The newest one is almost always available(unless they run out).. Either way, all indications I have say they will be available in the 6;4L class. They are going through final print(to check for accuracy) now and should be shipped to the training centeres after the holidays.. Dont worry, they'll be available /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/rockon.gif.. Great stuff BTW..

Quote: It was a qualifier exam for the State of Connecticut emissions repairer course. Damn, now that I think of it, that was pretty funny and yes, the grease monkey WAS that stupid. I think we'll see a HUGE separation of technicians and mechanics with this one...

That place never ceases to amaze me... The pure lazyness some over there show, then they complain that the product sucks(because they dont fully understand it) /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banghead.gif Guys, I would like to add my opinion/recomendation regarding the 6.4L.... It appears its going to be VERYprocedure oriented.. There will be certain things you need(and order of wich you do them) to do to avoid having to remove the body and create more work. Those that short-cut these steps will see high recheck numbers and more broke trucks.. From what I have seen this will be a good engine, provided everyone(not just techs) do their job corectly.. Your instructor should convey the importance of this in the class.. Those that are comfortable pulling the bodies will have an easy transition, while those that are avoiding it will struggle a bit.. But, bottom line is, its just peices and parts, procedure will be the key..

Web based will be avail 12/15 and required to be completed for retaining cert no later than 3/31. However, you cannot request the class untill you complete the web class.. There will also be a Super Duty class(web) that isnt required(to my knowledge) but will explain things you will need to know... The class will become avail in different parts of the country at differing times as the instructors get trained. You will begine seeing class' by mid Jan in some areas. The class will be manditory no later than 12/31/07 for certs.. Hope that helps /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbup.gif

Last I heard was 5 and should be capible of 8-9x...

It can be done with the heads on, following the instructions on PTS.. I cant see doing it in the truck though... Maybe someone else has had luck with it though..

Guys, As far as training, dont forget the key to it is completing the web course ASAP.. I believe it becomes active on 12/15.. When you get it done, you will be able to enroll for the class.. You should begin seeing the class' scheduled as early as Monday, though you wont be able to sign up until the web class is done.. BTW, I agree, John is a really good guy /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbup.gif

Dave, You make a very valid point that I cant argue with.. They certainly arent "fun" to work on for the pay.. I think diesel techs deserve much more per hr than they typicaly get..

Imagine if they told you to go ahead and lift the cabs without proper procedure and lifting attachments and some dumb !@*!#?! dropped on on himself..... /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/crybaby2.gif.... Its all leagal, doing a job however you feel comfortable has always been up to the tech.. Unless there was a bracket designed to keep that crank in the block/ meshed with the cam so it didnt jump time while I took all the main caps off, I wouldnt do it..Again, personal preference I guess.. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/2cents.gif

Well, I would say DONT EVEN TRY IT!!.. Seriously, remember that the bedplate holds the crank in. To do it right the rear cover must be off to install the cam alignment tool.. I would hate to have the cam rotate(under valve spring pressure) without knowing it until I tried to start the engine.. Just my opinion of course, there might be a way,but I wouldnt want to risk it on something as fun to work on as a 6.0L..

Jim, Like Cetane mentioned, your concerns are more from lack of explanation.. The head studs were pure rumor, you just wont see them on a factory engine.. The new bolts are Tq to yeild, larger in diameter and shorter(they do not go through the rocker box anymore). This will eliminate the dissimilar metal expansion possibilites effecting bolt tq in my opinion. The glow plus are in the same place(they are the same heads as 1/06 and newer 6.0L's), the rocker box and valve cover are the differences, so it looks much different. The connectors even appear to have the same clamp together cover on them that might make removal of the plug a bit challenging at times. As for the VGT, its electronic in very much the same way(similar design)as a intake manifold runner control that you would find on a gas burner.. We will now have the ability to move the turbo during KOEO if calibrated to do so, as well as being able to tell possition of it... In short, from what I have seen and heard so far, ALL of the issues that have occured with the 6.0L have been addressed in one way or another.. Who knows what's really going to brake? Unfortunatly, you guys make your living on broken vehicles, if these things dont brake you may be wishing for 6.0L's to return.. We just have to be prepared and the pictures and discussion will help dramaticly.. Hope it works out..

I've heard of Hotline recomending it in the past as well.... I'm not a fan of it because I've never found it needed... If you are using a stethescope and listening to every possble leak point, its hard to miss it.. I have found that there are way too many guys out there still trying to listen with the naked ear /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banghead.gif, one guy even used the stethescope, but it had the metal end on it /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/crazy.gif for noise rather than air leaks.. I recomend keeping it as simple as possible... The block heater helps some too for those that only act up hot..

Map-Baro=MGP Just a calculation...

I would say, be patient.... Apply the air, let it blow for a couple min, then turn the IPR up and you should hear a change in airflow in the engine..Just dont rush it, most guys dont trust the air test because they are in a hurry and dont hear it right off the bat and think its not leaking..I've had air on a system, on and off, for 30min before I heard an injector finaly let go, leaking badly.. Thi is where the heat comes into play, cold oil is plenty thick to seal a 130# air pressure test...Dont forget that the WDS/IDS will only let you control the IPR for 5min or so at a time, you may hear a bad leak develop and it just be the IPR leaking because it fell back to 14%..