HGM

You may want to try to re ghost the machine to see if it helps. Sometimes they get a glitch from adding update after update. If you havent done so, you can plug a keyboard and mouse into the WDS. Boot it up, CTRL-ALT-DEL, close TabMan. This will give you the regular windows screen. Open the start menuse and do a clean-up and Defrag. Reboot the machine, reinstall your latest blue disc. About 10% into the reinstall, eject the disc. You'll have to reinstall it again, maybe along with the red disc as well. If you run into a problem, or dont understand my details, the diag equipment prompt on Hotline can assist you..

At least you didnt let it beat you, good luck with whatever you end up doing.. I think most of us are looking forward to the Walmart gig.

PVT is my recomendation as well. The lines you need should be with the WDS, they were trans test lines(braided hose). you'll still need to use the 6.0L fitting though. Its the only way to go, you can also make a recording of it to analyze with the other PIDS, it also helps hotline. As for temps, monitor ECT and EOT. There should be less than a 25deg difference, if I remember correctly.

ktmlew, Did you get the fuel pressure while the concern was happening or just in your stall? These things have been known for killing injectors w/low fuel pressure under load and good pressure in the stall. The 29psi is also a clue, does this truck have excessive idle time? If thats the case, you could very well have a sticking turbo and or carboned EGR with such short mileage. Just a couple of thoughts, I would definitly do the EGR and VGT tests too. Sounds like thats were it is.

I like the scotch brite idea better. You might loose a couple of wire bristles in the combustion chamber. Hope it works out, the sleeve wouldnt be a fun job.

I should chime in too Keith, sorry for getting the guys fired up. It is a sensitive issue. Unfortunatly on the internet it is difficult to get your point across effectively without sounding like a turn-coat. Like I said, I've been there and am now aware of some of the real reasons things are the way they are. I'll leave it at that since now I'm a "Manager type". Though if you truly understood what I am saying, you'd love to have me as a manager. I'll try to let you guys have these boards to do your venting w/o sticking my nose in them and will try to assist on the vehicles only. Good luck and try to keep a little positive or it will drive you nuts.

yea, your right.... Ford is responsible for paying you to wait at the counter and talk shit to the other guys in the shop about how bad it is... If it sucks that bad for you get out....That attitude will slow you down even more and effect the rest of the shops moral.Like I said, try a chrysler dealer that wont pay you for diagnostic time either, better polish your crystal ball. Didnt realize this was a poor me crying site, its sounding more like the stuff coming out of New Orleans. HEY, thats it, blame it on the government TOO!!!!! Thanks for listening.

I'm not arguing the issue with the 6.0 nor how we got to this point. I completely agree with most of what you have stated about it. Again, I believe that the times are attainable. You wont make 100hrs per week doing waranty work, plain and simple. As a matter of fact you'd be lucky to turn much more than 40hrs in a 40hr week if all you did was warranty work. Is that why we got into the bussiness, NO. We got into it because in the hay day, you could easily beat the times by 60-70%. Things have become technical, to say the least, and we have had to keep up. Those that havent are now doing all the CP gravy. Its hard to blame it on Ford when the dealer has chosen to feed you all the shit w/ no gravy. Ford could take more control, but then it comes into the dealer franchise agreement. Believe me, I have been there and completely understand what you are saying. I can now see the total picture, not just what the dealer wants me to see. There are techs that work at good dealers who treat them right and feed them the gravy along with their shit sandwitch so it goes down easier. These guys have been at the same dealer for many years and wouldnt dream of leaving. You can relate this to McDonalds having poor management and service in one town, but the next town over you would think they were a real resturant. We can only hope things get better and the flatrate thing it revisited or killed all together.

I'm sorry to hear about your health, as well as the fact you think that you think you cant live up to my expectations... No where did I say that, I mearly stated that the dealer is a tough work environment. To clarify further what I meant, Ford's labor times arent as far out of line as most believe. Just ask a Chrysler tech. If your humpin it with everything working out with parts you should be able to meet the times. The issues you stated are dealer issues, not Ford Motor Company's. I left the dealer for the same reasons, I couldnt handle busting my back to make 40hrs per week doing the work no one else could or would do, while some chosen one makes 100-120hrs with enough time to read the news paper,drink coffes, smoke cigarettes and bitch about the lack of work. It is a very difficult job for a honest tech. Wish you the best, and hope you find something else that suits your desire to work with vehicles. Maybe you can find a dealer that treats you better..?..

Well,I wish you the best... When you have one kick off in your ass please let us know. I have seen it multiple times and they are tough. Good luck.

Agreed replace the pipes, but I would like to know what fixed it....Better to check everything than have to go back into it that deep.Of course you could just put everything in, but I dont work that way.

Yea, the block off tools work just like they did on the 7.3, they only eliminate the injectors a rails though, so you could still have leaking stand pipes and branch tube. The ICP goes into the block off tool at the top of the standpipe on the passenger side and the plug goes in on the drivers side. This will give you pump dead head. The block off tools are #303-756 for '03 #303-1071/1 & 2 for '04 #303-1163/1 & 2 for '05-6

Keith, First off throw the NGS away when it comes to the 6.0. Its unreliable and gives false readings. WDS it the tool, unless ou have a PDS. The dead head test can be done on all 6.0's the problem is that you have to have the fittings. '03,'04,'05-6 have different tools. The issue we have is that the learning curve on this engine is extremely sharp. Things have changed dramaticly ove the years. If your using paper books, you'll get bit because the books dont get corrected. Electronic books are the best bet. If you need the block off tool numbers I'll post them this afternoon. I personally have gotten quite proficient with the air test and rarely use the block off tools. You need to use a stethescope.

Robdog, First off thank you and all your buddies for what youre doing for us over there. I'm with Kieth, it has to be the fuel.. Try the additive he recomended and change the filters. The 6.0L has 2 fuel filters that must be changed. We have had some serious issues with fuel quality and low pressure destroying the injectors. Keep us posted and we'll help the best we can. Keep up the good work, we look forward to you guys coming home safe.

Yes, it should... I believe we have a J-tube or standpipe cracked...Guess we'll never know. AMC, can you post the vin on this truck? or PM it to me when you get a chance please.

Sorry to hear that, hope it wasnt over this truck... Good luck.

I think you misunderstood me, I agree that there is a problem with pay. At the point where I was so frustrated with the dealer because I was overworked and under payed I left. My point was that the job can be done in the time they pay. If you cant do it, there is a reason. My body cant hang anymore either. I hear alot of bitching going on(not dirrected to you), if you dont like your job, you chose it so move on to something better. If you cant aford to, apply for a lube tech to make more money. I'm not sure what lit your fire about my last post, but I feel it was honest and not dirrected to you but the industry. It's a tough bussines... The more you know the less you make because you become too expensive to do the gravy. Therfore you make less money. So, I agree that you would have to spend alot more time at work to make the kind of money we used to in the past. Times have changed.

You can also check your standpipes by removing them, plugging one end then filling them with brake cleaner a looking for a leak. This is a small leak and can very possibly be the concern. I was under the impression that you had already tried them to no avail. The cracks I have seen are vertical in the middle of the pipe.

Well, hang on... I must have been typing while you were.. What state is it in now? even with it cold you'll have some leakage with air, though it might take a little while to push the oil out.. Do an air test and let it sit with air on it for 30 min or so. see what you can see and hear.

You should be able to run this with the valve covers off w/o making too big of mess. You'll need to get them off and run it long enough to make the concern present, you may also get it to duplicate by plugging in the block heater. From this point you need to add shop air,do this before shutting the IPR. once you shut the IPR listen for a leak with a stetheskope, dont try to just liten by ear. Listen near top of injector were the oil rail connects, if you dont hear a leak there(or see smoke) listen for air leaking around the rear push rods. This is were you will hear a HP pump or connector leak. If you dont hear it in the heads, you'll have to remove the intake and HP cover. At this point you can add air to the top of the pump where it dumps into the cover(IPR drain).. Make sure you put the plug back into the oil rail or you'll get a bath . With the top of the engine open, you can see the pump, J-tube, connector, o-rings and top of the branch tube while eliminating the cover and IPR. You will find the leak this way, usually you can see smoke. Just make sure you give it a chance to bleed the oil out when doing the air test, if you rush it, you'll miss it. Good luck. keep us posted.

Well,whatever works for you.. I saw the fact that it didnt fix it, I was just addressing the fact that it wont. I have seen them with cracks that you could hardly see. HPOP is rare, you got a string of them I guess..Unless youre replacing the fitting and J-tube at the same time.. Good luck w/them.

Guys,I spent my time in the barrel... I've been a tech for 15yrs and remember some great stuff in the past(hope you see the sarcasm).. The fact of the mater is that we work in the repair industry. We dont fix vehicles that arent broken......What do you think the gynocologist thinks of his job?? We only see the stuff that has problems, the more certified we are, the better suited to repair things. If you think that things will be different somewhere else, go for it.. I'll bet that its a rude awakening, every time I have left for greener pastures, I just found the shit smelled different because it was fresh, it doesnt take long to get old. Any job in the service industry will eventually suck, its up to you to make it tolerable. Hopefully the dealer is willing to treat you right. On to the money, sorry guys, the days of making 100% profit on warranty are over. Ford wants a fair deal from you, and they can control it for the most part. Most all of their times are attainable, meaning you should be able to turn 40hrs in a 40hr week if you dont spend your time jacking your jaw or smoking(cigaretts) One key point to realize, the dealer is in it to make money too. They wont pay you $30 per hr to do a gravy service. Try to make a deal to get the quick service guys rate for service work, that will increase your profit. Keep as possitive as you can or you'll self destruct. You may need to move on if you cant handle it.

Sorry snw, gota disagree.... The stand pipes WILL cause this, as will an o-ring. First off, what year is the tuck and what condition is it in now? V/C on/off? Intake on/off? Etc... I also agree this is a HP oil system failure, let us know the vehicle details and we'll have it fixed soon... May not be fun , but you'll fix it.

I too have seen one close up and it is tight. I was curious if there were any pics of the engine compartment.